X1C LED riser with (or not) diffusor and gridfinity! by LutraVulgaris

LutraVulgaris

3D Printer>3D Printer Accessories

Print Profile(6)

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X1 Carbon

P1S

P1P

X1E

LED -riser only

Designer

7.2 h

3 plates

4.3(22)

diffusor

Designer

40 min

1 plate

4.9(8)

TPU gasket

Designer

3.7 h

2 plates

4.5(2)

LED -riser with gridfinity and extra LED-strip add-on

Designer

16.6 h

5 plates

3.8(5)

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Boost

142

259

426

407

Released

Description

Another one? yes, another one… BUT! this one has a slot to slide in a (printed) diffusor, or a piece of paperstrip cut to the right specs.

if you plan to use the gridfinity add on, you can print the file with gridfinity add-on, this houses some 6x2 magnets (they press fit but to be sure use a drop of glue)
if you plan to use the gridfinity add-on but still need more light? you can use the gridfinity add-on with extra LEDstrip, this houses some 6x2 magnets (they press fit but to be sure use a drop of glue) so you can use another ledstrip to house underneath the gridfinity part. this LED shines down on the buildplate and you can use the 24v AMS psu as a source. it also has a vutout on the front to house a 12mm push button

I made the LED riser to fit in 12mm WS2812b 5v strips but can easily house other ones ofcourse. you might want to use the 24v hack and using the PSU from bambulab itself.

I printed with these settings:

PLA 220/55
layer height 0.2mm
walls 2
bottom 2
top 5
infill gyroid 15%
support automatic with top/bottom-Z on 0.1mm

I also made a Gridfinity addon:

made one with an option for an extra ledstrip accessible via a 12mm power button getting its power off the AMS 24v psu
all gridfinity files are in seperate files WITH or WITHOUT cutout in the bottom
magnets used is 6x2mm

quite some support but I saw no chance of cutting the design in two pieces to avoid this.

for the connectors, they are press fit with no tolerance. if you have trouble let me know.

for the diffusor you can use plain paper or you can print the diffusor file, it is a 13.5mm wide strip that fits into a 14mm wide slot, if it is too tight you can cut a shimmer off using a ruler and exacto/utility knife. It is 0.3mm thick and needs to fit in a 0.4mm slot. I recommend these settings to secure a 3 layer piece:

fine setting .12mm
first layer height 0.1mm

this way you get 3 layers (0.34mm) making it sturdy enough to fit through and diffuse light

when sliding in the diffusorstrip: connect every connector except the front, you can slide the diffusorstrip in, when all are in you can cut the excess and close the last connector from the top!

SEAL: I used a 2mm foam seal on the rim but you can also just print someting from TPU (file included) or use whatever you have on hand

optional: there is an optional cable holder included, it houses a 5.5mm cable and screws on the back of the X1C with a m3x10 bolt

you can also use ziptie to the PTFE entrance

other questions, problems, design changes let me know!

Comment & Rating (53)

@frankieorabona.

Print Profile

LED -riser with gridfinity and extra LED-strip add-on

The project itself seems functional. However, I had a lot of printing problems. Too much material wasted on the supports. The top as you can see from the photos is too fragile and in the post production process you risk (as I did) breaking it. I wondered whether it was worth printing them vertically instead of horizontally. Perhaps fewer supports would have been needed.

(Edited)

Other Issues

The designer has replied

@LutraVulgaris

thanks for the print! there is a lot of support needed I know that. it is on my to do list to make it in two seperate parts so you can print it facing up and clicking into eachother. I'm aware of the toppart is too thin, will change this

@frankieorabona.

Replying to @LutraVulgaris :

I take this opportunity to ask you two more things. There must be a design problem. Missing low connectors for the GRIDFINITY In the GRIDFINITY screw housings, which screws should I insert to connect them together? Also, how do I get power to the additional LED of the GRID FINITY? The wires hang on the glass... it's really bad looking

(Edited)

@MostHated

The idea and general design are good, but unfortunately, I ran into some issues. Perhaps it might be my own inexperience, and could be improved with better settings for supports, but they were a PITA to remove, and caused additional problems. The top outer wall in which the glass sits is too thin in my opinion. When trying to remove the supports, since I didn't realize how thin/brittle the top wall was, I snapped the ends of them so that they began peeling off. I tried to use nano tape to fix them but it was on either side of the very front facing section, so I probably just need to reprint it. Another is not so much of an issue, but perhaps a suggestion. When using standard ws281x led's, they sit so far back that most of the light doesn't make it down to the print surface. I might try putting some sort of angle piece behind them so that they are moved a bit more forward and downward facing. Before printing this, I just had bare 24v ws281x cob strips cut into 4 sections and had jump wires between each to let them make a square shape and just sort of tucked them under the AMS, but they were downward facing and visibility was great. Now, mostly just the top of the view is lit up in a somewhat overpowering manner, which seems to make the print area even less visible then before. I am hoping that moving them forward a bit and angling them down a bit might help, but we shall see. In the images, show the front with the tape on it, which I am going to remove. Nano tape is just too thick for that. I need to just reprint. The other two are both the left and right side connected areas.

The designer has replied

@LutraVulgaris

did you diffuse the light? had some issues with the edge being too thin and will snap. will change this

@user_3624311698

se puede poner sin difusor en una sola cama. gracias por el diseño

@gritpaths

Print Profile

LED -riser only

This was one of the first things I've printed and although encountering most of the tricky points already mentioned, I really like the end result. It took quite a bit of time, care and some filing getting it to all fit but the result was definitely worth it. The improvement in lighting is terrific and I like the simplistic look. Everyone that's seen it thought it was just part of the printer.

@cdscloud

awesome addition to my X1. I put a USB powered LED strip with an RF remote.

@p.oetiker

Print Profile

LED -riser only

@skutny

Print Profile

diffusor

Printed clean, but I'm not sure how to apply it, I was hoping it would go in a channel or snap in place, do I glue the diffuser to the led strip?

@Shannon3DFusion

Diffuser slides into channels.

@skutny

got it. Thanks

@Shannon3DFusion

Print Profile

diffusor

Very easy to print. However I played and played with support settings and burned through an entire Kg of filament trying to get something that I didnt have to hammer loose. The top lip that surrounds the glass is far too weak and snaps off easily. I have since went back to the original (the one you remixed from). The TPU file is also too thick. I scaled the Z to 1mm as 2mm makes the glass sit above the lip.

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@LutraVulgaris

thanks for the feedback! will change these things :) it is on my to do list to make the parts snap into eachother so there is no need for support. maybe overreacting a bit with the KG of support? I think it costs me 40 grams or so. had the support very close to the part for a reason to keep the detail on the diffuser channel

(Edited)

@xXnuggXx

overall a great design but the top lips that hold the glass in are super thin and break really easy.

@NSBrad

Print Profile

LED -riser only

I really wanted to like this one. It checked off all of the points I was looking for but this has been a disaster. First I snapped the lip off when trying to remove supports like others have commented on. On reprint I printed them verticle and that came out nicer but some of the supports were still a pain. The bigger issue I have is that it’s too small. It need 3-4 mm in each direct to fit the glass on top. I printed with ABS for the higher heat tolerance. Not sure if it’s shrinking or not. Both the horizonatal and verticle prints came out the same size though.