Vent for P1S by YGP

Vent for P1S by YGP

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Print Profile(1)

All
P1S
P1P
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E
A1

0.2mm layer, 4 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 4 walls, 15% infill
Designer
76.2 h
9 plates

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Released

Description

Contains all optional files.
Choose a form that suits your condition and print it out!!

 

 

>Function

1. Additional exhaust fan
If you turn on the left switch, the LED lights up continuously
The exhaust fan can be switched on, off and speed controlled using the exhaust motor controller next to it.
However, since it is a low-cost motor, it only works when a certain voltage is applied.. It needs to be about 85% of the controller to start spinning. Subsequently, fine movement will adjust the speed. I bought another speed control fan because of the speed control part, but it was in the same condition, so I just finished with this product. (It took about another week because of this.) TT
As another solution, mark2 is planning to add a temperature change sensor to allow the exhaust fan to operate and stop automatically without adjusting the speed.

2. 2. LED
Low-heat LEDs were applied to prevent them from breaking down under the influence of internal temperature, and for even light distribution, they were applied at a 20 degree angle.
0.76w x 6 pieces = 4.56w per piece.

3. a thermometer
The temperature of the upper part of the chamber can be checked by applying a needle-type thermometer. (You can take it out while cooking.)

4. You can adjust the right lever to adjust the amount of heat exiting the rear top exhaust.
Due to the strong performance of the additional fan, the hole was not made large to maintain the temperature inside the chamber.

5. window partition vent
It's a size that fits my fancy. I attached the f3d file, so you can pull it out according to the height of your window frame


Even if you increase the chamber fan speed to 100%, the air suction snout is at the height of the extruder, so you can't suck the hot heat above that.
In particular, the PLA is vulnerable to heat, which requires opening and printing the front door, so adding an outlet at the top allowed the door to be closed and output.

It was built within 60mm to make the most of the space behind the printer.

The temperature at the top of the chamber was maintained at 46-48 degrees.
We are planning to match this part by applying the temperature sensor at mark2.

The outlet plug is foreign, so it's thin, so it doesn't get tight. It's a good idea to exchange products that you throw away at home or on the radio.
Or wrap it with tape so that the plug doesn't come off

All options are modular, so you can select and install only what you want.
If you don't need an LED, you can take out the frame and print it out
If you don't need a thermometer, don't plug it in~
To install the additional fan on the window side rather than behind the printer, pull out the 100mm external diameter and 100mm internal diameter adapter, respectively, and move them again.
Since the fan controller (FWM) is not functioning properly, you can only turn it on and off without a controller.

The AMS is designed so that it does not affect the bending of the rear tube even when setting is placed on the printer.


>Main points when assembling
It is recommended that you lay it on the floor first and then put it on the chamber.
1. Plug the power on/off switch into the fan's wire first to hold the line length.
Connect the wiring as shown in the picture.
Fan = Plug-Switch-Controller-Pan
LED = Controller-Inverter-LED
Pass the wires from the switch and the wires from the inverter in one place.
Hand over the wires to the fan to the other two slots.
The wires are relaxed, so don't make them too tight. If you fold the spare parts into the frame later, they will be neat.
2. Pull and pull the controller adjustment knob, assemble it to the case, and plug the knob back in.
3. Never cut the wire and adjust the length with LED wires as it has holes to match the length of the inverter's wiring~
4. Use the 'Tree' support when extracting the vent3 file and carefully remove the parts when removing the support.
5. Insert the magnet by setting 'Pause' by pressing the right mouse button at the first layer where the hole is covered in the preview slicing state.
6. The Extruder Tube Guide must be installed.
https://www.printables.com/model/338542-x1-p1p-ptfe-tube-guide-to-fix-loading-issues-best-

 

> Purchase List

Controller
https://ko.aliexpress.com/item/1005004180917280.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.23.5faa140fPiDN3o&gatewayAdapt=glo2kor

a blast fan
https://ko.aliexpress.com/item/1005004354219502.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.58.5faa140fPiDN3o&gatewayAdapt=glo2kor

LED / Inverter
Epoxy type 3-hole module KPL Korean
30w (165x24x18mm)

neodymium magnet
Magnet size: D15Xd7.3X15T

Thermometer
Advanced Cooking Thermometer (Automatic Off after 10 minutes)
https://ko.aliexpress.com/item/1005002322143988.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2kor


- Hardware store
bellows duct 100 mm
Cable ties (or anything you can tie to your house or electrical tape)

Comment & Rating (4)

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wow ive been wanting to add a better exhaust fan and vent to my p1s. this is a far better solution than the 12v fan duct taped to a vacuum hose that i had
1
Reply
amazing design. you put a lot of thought and design into it. How much design effort would it take to make it go the other direction.. my window is on the other side.lol
0
Reply
Does this interfere with an AMS or the spool holder on the back of the machine?
0
Reply
Do we also not need another duct running to the MB holes as well to ensure no air leaks?
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