This is a WIP project (work in project), almost done in fact, the photos you will see its from all the prototypes I made, some of the problems I found in the assembly are corrected.
This project it's compatible with almost all aliexpress cards that have the same type of heatsink (I appreciate some diferences on the fins only of the heatsink that have the power connectors on the side o in the back of the PCB.
All parts are printed in PETG and still survived without any bend or problem, but the final print needs to be ABS/ASA at least the fan ducts that are mounted in touch of the heatsink.
Please if you notice some errors tell me and I will try to fix.
Most of RX5700 and RX5700XT from aliexpress, with side or back power connectors.
My model are a Soyo RX5700XT.
95% valid for (need someone that print the duct and try…)
Some weeks ago received an "Soyo" Radeon RX5700XT that bought for a second PC. When start to play and testing the GPU I instantly regret my decision to buy this card.... Oh my f***** god... so many years without hear that type and powerful noise. Try a Ryzen 5800X with wraith stealth cooler (65w one) and crush some cinebenchs... still not enough high pitch fan noise to equal this soyo gpu.
It's not fair that I saw to many youtube "reviews" with same card (or clones) with the same cooler and nobody talks about this... only found one fair review... another thing thats it's need to mention... that kind of aliexpress R5700XT comes with 50A rated VRM instead 70A rated VRM of OEM Reference card. If you have a nice one 50A VRM you don't have any problem, even if you overclock the card a push +230W, but if you have crappy vrm take care and not push above 200W.
Mine comes with Alpha & Omega AOZ5311NQI BLN3 DrMOS, that are very good, and used in other high end cards like RTX4080/4090. Check yours before push the limit.
Why 50A rated VRM can easy take the job of 70A rated? Because you are not capable to cool down with air + thermalpads to much heat.
Check this video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-SAWtKEIYbw from gamersnexus, OEM 5700XT can't push more than 250A-300A on air without “suicidal” VRM temps.
Efficiency curve of BLN3 and Fairchild FDMF3170 (oem) its very similar, about 1W more of heat per VRM on 35-40A range for BLN3. (Check datasheets if you want)
https://aosmd.com/res/data_sheets/AOZ5311NQI.pdf
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/308/1/FDMF3170_D-1222701.pdf
Also mention that the bios comes with a TDP of 150W, but with powerlimits -+50%, you can go until 225W without flash any bios.
The stock Fans makes a lot of high pitch noise, and the stock heatsink is a bit insufficient for this card… this card achieves “good” temperatures at cost of putting 92mm low efficient fans a ridiculous rpm.
The stock fans doesn't have much room to push air against all the heatsink.
This print tries to maximize the efficiency of this cooler, ducting the air of 92mm fans over all heatsink. And using more friendly acoustic fans. We have a first group of fins of 96x98mm and other second of 103x98, but only can blow air on 85mm wide.
Put two 92x15mm fans or 92x25mm fans.
Some spoliers.
92x15mm (TL-9015 PWM) https://www.thermalright.com/product/tl-9015/
1000mv/1950mhz Furmark
150W TDP - 69ºC GPU, 82ºC hotspot 150W costant
190W TDP - 78ºC GPU, 97ºC hotspot 177w-182W
92x25mm (TL-B9) https://www.thermalright.com/product/tl-b9/
1000mv/1950mhz Furmark
150W TDP - 64ºC GPU, 80ºC hotspot - 150W costant
190W TDP - 69ºC GPU, 88ºC hotspot - 176-185W
Gaming comparison Stock cooler
Gaming comparison 150W round , stock cooler vs modded
Gaming comparison 190W round
TDP makes reference to the max power the chip can have, 150W means 0% powerlimit, 190W means 30% powerlimit.
TLDR:
If you want to run the card naked
If you want to use drill assembly
If you want to put the cover
You can make the fan power adapter with JST PH 2.0 4 pin connectors or canibalizating from other card.
Take in consideration that you only need the rpm signal cable only from one FAN, the other runs without.
You have two modes of assembly, with drill and no drill. All prototypes run with no drill assembly, just put good zip ties. The heatsink holes are of 2.5mm, you need to drill to 3mm to use M3 screws.
You need to remove the cooler to disassemble the fan cover that comes with the two turbofan engines.
Put the fan and bolt it to the fan duct, use the side holes to make some cable management. Mount the fan with the cable facing the side that will be placed on the center of the heatsink, see the photo.
Now you can use the zip tie mount in the middle and put zip ties straight in the side holes.
If you want to use drill mount, put the screw head facing the pcb, and use the plastic pieces you printed against the duct, this was intended to protect the printed piece and avoid to press directly, its a sacrificable part.
If you put zip ties, remember to put the zip ties over the interior (if not the cover will not fit correctly.)
Now you can put the cover or install the card. If you want to put the cover you need to assembly first. Put the threaded inserts first.
(This two parts were modified to make easy installation/bolting) Ball allen key its highly recommended.
Then, put on the top of your fans and bolt it with M5 self-tapping screws.
Any remix its prohibited by default, because the abuse of users that upload fake remixes or simply laminate for other slicer and upload without any mention or even removes the creator signature and upload as theirs. Contact me if you want to make a remix.