This remix adds a few small QoL improvements and introduces a second piece to the design to cover and protect the PCB of the webcam.

As noted on the original model page, this is intended for a Voron Trident printer. It should work for other Core-XY printers with movable bed and stationary (in the Z dimension) gantry, whereas it may not be the right choice for a Voron 2.4 with its fixed bed and flying gantry.

Printing Instructions

Print in ABS/ASA for an enclosed printer, or PETG for unenclosed. Voron PIF spec is recommended (4 walls, 5 top & bottom layers, 40% infill).

The overhangs are not trivial (45°) but will print fine without support as long as you have sufficient cooling. The version in the photos was done on a Voron 0.2 with DragonBurner toolhead and turned out great. I also did a couple rapid prototypes in PLA on a Bambu P1S and had some issues with the overhangs (orientation relative to the aux part cooling fan matters more with that printer).

Hardware BOM

• NexiGo N980P 120° FOV webcam (others might work as well, particularly from the same brand, but this one is nice because of the especially wide FOV that affords good visibility of most of the printer)
• 4x M3x12 SCHS
• 2x M4x8 BHCS
• 2x M4 T-nuts or roll-in nuts

Assembly Instructions

To remove the webcam PCB, lens, and USB cable from the stock enclosure, start by peeling up the thin piece of shiny plastic that's attached to the front with some adhesive. Remove the 4 screws that were hidden behind the plastic. At this point the webcam should come apart easily. Using a small screwdriver, pry the metal locking piece away from the USB cable where it passes through the enclosure. You can then rotate and remove the entire USB cable without cutting anything.

Place the new housing over the lens and PCB. It's intentionally tight. If it won't fit in, you can always remove the silver plastic surround from the lens (it just pulls straight off) making the diameter much smaller and easy to fit. Then align the mount with the back of the PCB, routing the USB cable through the slot at the side of the PCB (there should still be tabs on the cable to provide straight relief, or you can add zip ties here).

Screw the two printed parts together with the PCB sandwiched in between, using the 4x M3x12 screws. Then mount the whole assembly with the M4 screws and nuts.

If mounted in the front left or right, the USB cable can be run down along the vertical extrusions and into the electronics bay at the back or bottom of the printer.