For all you coffee lovers out there, I welcome you to print and explore the wondrous, the splendid, the extravagant, Voronoi coffee cup lamp!

The low poly original design of this lamp is meant to accept twinkle (or fairy) lights as its main lighting source. The thickness of the walls is 2mm, with not one, not two, but three of the six sides showing off different Voronoi patterns. It is styled after a standard 20oz to go cup, similar to those at Starbucks and there are 3 (or 4) parts to this model. Dimensions: About 108mm diameter x 180mm tall when the base is included. 3MF and STL files available.

1. Cup. You can choose from two different models, one with and one without a sleeve. (The sleeve has the pattern on it to match the cup. The cup has a small hole on one side for running the light strand/power cord. Well, technically you can choose from four different models. In case you decide to use a base with a light built in already, I have added two additional models, with or without a sleeve. And, there's a useful little 40mm (1.5in) hole in the bottom to let the light shine in. And of course, this happens to be the right size for a battery-powered tea light as well. There is a separate file for just the sleeve if you want to print it separately, but there are chamfers to watch out for on the top and bottom. And, due to the design, if you force it too hard onto the cup without heating it first, you may just break it.
2. Lid. The lid sits on top of the model. Initially was going to screw on, but if you chose to have a white lid the screw outline would show through a little. The cup does sit “inside” the lid so it won't simply slide off. However, it is removeable to allow for easy adjustment of your lights. As noted below, you get to choose between a solid lid, or a Voronoi lid!
3. Base (Optional). Some people want a base for the lamp to sit on, especially of a different color. It has an inset for the cup and does not obstruct the pattern or the hole for the lights. There is a second insetso as to be able to center a tea light. It is meant to be combined with the cup with a hole in the bottom. Please do not attempt to use with a real candle. The lamp (and possibly your home) may not last the day.

Tips:

1. Cup: Print right side up. It's unlikely to print with any infill except the lip at the top of the cup so 25% or more should do it. You shouldn't need supports but may want a brim for extra adhesion. Suggested color is white. The model is 2mm thick, so this will allow some light to pass through the unpatterned sides. An alternative is adjusting your slicer to print about 1mm thick. Vase mode is also possible with the cup, but I can't guarantee the lid won't be too heavy and then need adjusting. Note that the sleeve adds thickness which lessens any light shining through.
2. As noted above, the sleeve can be downloaded as a separate component and can be printed if you so choose. Maybe you'd like to try a different color and slide it on? However, and this is important, the sleeve has a chamfer on the top and bottom, so you'll need some sort of support for it, or chop off the chamfer with your slicer. Remember to print the cup without the sleeve if you decide to go this route. And it will only fit on one way to match the pattern.
3. Lid: Print upside down. If you really need it to stick to the cup, I'd recommend a thin strip of double sided tape, or a temporary glue. Whatever color you want! Pink? Rainbow? Go for it.
4. Base: Print right side up. 10% infill is fine.
5. This is a medium to large model, just slightly larger than a typical 20oz coffee cup. Check the dimensions in your slicer. This model can be scaled down somewhat without losing integrity, but confirm this in your slicer before printing. Scaling up is possible, but might give some dangerously long bridges.
6. I would recommend a 0.4mm nozzle with 0.20mm layer height. However, a 0.6mm nozzle or a larger layer height shouldn't give issue with this model. I suggest looking through the model after slicing to see if it's going to print the way you'd hope.
7. You may want to place your z seam on the back side (same side as the hole for the cord).
8. Supports? Well, that's up to you. It was designed so that supports wouldn't be necessary. You may choose to use a little bed adhesion brims. Overhangs are generally 45 degrees or less. Most of the long bridges are around 10mm or less.
9. Lights! (I mean, it's the whole point of this and all, despite them being optional.) I recommend something such as this from Amazon. or this from AliExpress. However, I'm sure someone could have fun with LED light strips as well. Just please don't try to use incandescent bulbs, lest you melt your cup. If you are printing the model with the hole in the base, I would recommend something similar to this, this, or this. (Caveat emptor! I have not used these specific brands, and the links are meant to demonstrate the possibilities. They may be fantastic, or they made be duds, Perhaps they're just not bright enough, or you'll need to wear sunglasses when you have it on. It's up to you to decide before purchasing.) And of course, electric tea lights (1.5in or 38mm or smaller) should fit just fine, but will not light up the room.

The legals: I appreciate you not selling physical models of this without discussing with me first. Please do not sell the print files and do not upload to any other websites. On the other hand, I hope you feel free to share with your friends!