Adjustable height holder for a 300x200mm honeycomb bed.

This is intended to be used in a K40 laser cutter to provide an adjustable work bench

Required Items

• 300 x 200mm laser cutter honeycomb bed
• 5x 100mm M8 threaded rod
• 4x 608ZZ bearings
• 8x M8 nuts
• 8x M8 square nuts or half height locking nuts
• 2x M8 nylock locking nuts
• 8x M8 washers
• 4x GT2 drive pulleys with 8mm center
• 2x GT2 idler wheels with 3mm center
• 1x GT2 6mm timing belt 1250mm
• 2x M3 bolts 20mm
• 4x M3 washers
• 2x M3 nylock nuts
• 19mm x 19mm x 1.6mm aluminium square tubing
  • 2x 300mm length
  • 2x 200mm length
  • 2x 280mm length
  • 2x 180mm length

Assembly Instructions

Use the two 280 and 180mm tubes to form the upper frame along with the corner pieces with the longer arms and an m8 nut hole facing downwards, and the 300 and 200mm tubes to form the base with the four bottom corners that have a bearing hole facing upwards.

The four threaded rods have a square locking nut at the bottom, a washer, a bearing, a GT2 gear, then an M8 nut, tighten the nuts at both ends and press fit the bearing into the bottom pieces, rod should turn freely and bearing should be a friction tight fit.

Each of the top corners should have an M8 nut pressed into the recess on its underneath, and you can assemble the frame, just rotate the rods by hand for now.

The tensioner arm, push an M3 nylock into the recess from underneath, then feed a idler wheel with one washer either side on an M3 20mm bolt into the hole and tighten against the nylock. After positioning the slicer carriage in the arm Insert a second M3 bolt through the bottom of the slider, with the same idler and washer configuration ontop and a nylock nut to secure it. both idler wheels should be able to spin freely.

Slide two M8 square nuts into their recesses on the bottom of the slider, then feed an M8 rod through the arms outer hole, through the center of the slider and through those square nuts until it reaches the recess in the far wall of the tensioner arm. secure the outside end of the screw rod with another nylock nut.

You can now feed the GT2 timing belt around the outside of the gears on the screw rods, and in a Z shape across the two tensioning idlers.

You may use the same knob printed item to tighten the idler if it is too tight to do so by turning the nylock nut, but you will need to remove it in use as there is insufficient clearance to leave it fitted.

Whilst the belt is loose adjust each of the corners so that they are the exact same height, then tighten the tensioner until the belt is taut. As a final step push the adjusting knob onto the nylock nut ontop of one of the screw threads, and you can cap the others with the small caps.

Then simply drop your honeycomb bed into the frame where it should rest on the small ledges each corner piece has, adjust bed height by turning the nob, and all 4 corner rods should turn at the same rate, raising the bed evenly. If any corner slips, increase tension on the belt.