Peashooter Lamp LED Kit 001

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Peashooter Lamp LED Kit 001

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Print Profile(3)

All
X1 Carbon
P1S
P1P
X1
X1E
A1
A1 mini

Colored, seperate plates
Colored, seperate plates
Designer
16 h
4 plates
4.5(11)

For a1 mini only, colored, seperate plates
For a1 mini only, colored, seperate plates
Designer
18 h
6 plates
4.2(6)

Joints, each joint on one plate
Joints, each joint on one plate
Designer
2 h
4 plates

Boost
278
352
26
1
437
409
Released

Description

If you want a commercial license, check out my bio and get it from Patreon.

Personal use only.

 

This model is design for MakerWorld light contest (3/5). Complete free version is only available on here Makerworld.

There are some design derivative works based on this design available on my Patreon and Cults

Derivative work display:

This design takes two days of design, revisions, and tests. So your support will make more design like this available in the future. (It could also please my boss, let her stop blame me wasting my personal time of this)

 

You may also like this design:

BellSprout Lamp LED Kit 001

https://makerworld.com/en/models/164551#profileId-180702

 

So, continue with my last Bellsprout lamp design, there were many people who mentioned it would be cool to have a Peashooter lamp. So, there you go.

This design is also work around adopt the Bambu lab Lamp LED Kit 001 as light source, at the same time, I also want something new in there. So there are many new elements added in there beside the style different.

 

A1mini:

When initiated this design, I set it to be able to print within the build plate size of a1mini, so people who only have a1mini will also be able to enjoy it. Also, I don't want to go back and rework on some of the things to fit the size later, if someone requests it.

But it givesssssss me so much trouble just because of the build plate size. There are tons things that I have to work around to make it happen. But yeah, I got it done.

 

Credit:

My boss said I need to credit her work here. She taught me how to draw the line on parts.

New Mechanical stuffs:

Besides carry over ball joint design from previous work. I also have added thread, two locking mechanisms, one is located on the back on the head, where leaf attaches at, it is gradually locking structure where you can feel the friction increase while locking it. (But yeah, I have mess up the locking direction, it is left hand lock, lol)

Second one is located at bottom of the head, where it attaches to the ball joints. It allows two pieces still remains two degrees of freedom even when it is fully locked in position. Still working on better tolerancing, but it is definitely interesting stuff.

 

Printing Profile:

All the printing profiles are 0.28mm layer height. I have tested, in this scale (size) of model you can't really tell the differences in terms of printing quality from 0.20mm to 0.28mm. So why not just save some time.

 

Two printing profiles are available up there. I colored the head on eye. So, it takes very long time to print. I have tested, if you don't might paint with your maker after hand, pick some color for that part, you will reduce printing time to half.

 

Joints:

I put all the joints in one plate, the setting on joints is different with other parts. In order to keep the strength and flexibility of parts at the same time, keep it at 4 walls, 15% to 20% infill, less or extract will cause strength issue.

 

BOM:

Post work:

Remove all the brims. You don't need video instructions for this, right?

 

Assembly:

Pay attentions how I put joints together, this ensure best practice to reduce the failure of joints during assembly.

 

Step 1:

LED goes to head hub.

 

Step 2:

Head leaf assembly.

 

Step 3:

Head to joints connection.

 

Step 4:

Base hub. It is tight fit, perform assembly on table as shown.

 

Step 5:

Final assembly, take head joints off will make it easiler to put on with rest of the joints.

 

Okay, My favorite parts, design:

Since we are doing a feature orientated design, a function part. So the main focus is make it work. The size is determine by the light source, this design is a lot bigger in size compare to last lamp, since I want to put a standard light ball in there as light source too.

Also ensure it will fit the a1mini build plate size.

You know, when head is in such big size, you will need a stable base to keep it from falling.

Beside keep more weight on the base, you can also ensure keep the center of gravity as center as possible.

Integrate parts.

Comment & Rating (26)

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Print Profile
Colored, seperate plates
I had some issues with the joints failing when trying to bridge. Ultimately flipped them upside down and printed with supports, worked for me. Overall a very nice model, my kids love it!
2
Reply
Good shout. I've had the joints fail twice now. I'll flip them and use supports like you said. hopefully it works for me too 😅
0
Reply
Print Profile
Colored, seperate plates
Neck is the weak point.
1
Reply
Print Profile
Colored, seperate plates
wasted almost an entire roll of PLA before realizing todo it all in PETG, eventually came out and am happy with the end result.
(Edited)
0
Reply
very nice
0
Reply
Print Profile
Colored, seperate plates
Thank you for the great design and the print templates. I printed the lamp with PETG. The normal ball joints are all broken when put together, the ball joints wire are not. I have absolutely no idea why. Therefore I only used the ball joint wire and printed with 6 walls and 20% infill. btw: This thing is huge!
(Edited)
0
Reply
Print Profile
For a1 mini only, colored, seperate plates
(Edited)
Other Issues:Not sure what the issue is exactly but ive wasted so much filament at this point. Literally have everything printed but the joints. The joints have failed twice now at 1 hour left. that means they're 2 hours in and they fail. Ive wasted over 120 grams of filament just on the joints let alone the fact that I have all of these pieces printed out and now the joints wont print properly so everything is garbage. I never rate a profile negatively, but this cost me a lot of $
0
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I had the same issue when printing with the High Temp Plate. I tried it with the default Textured PEI Plate and the joints worked for me.
0
Reply
Im almost done with mine. I have 2 bellsprout lamps rn and this pea shooter. I was not expecting the pea shooters head to be like 3 times the size of bellsprouts lol! Great print! I plan on recording a youtube video of it soon as I am finished with it :) Great work, and thank you for your contribution to the community!
The designer has replied
2
Reply
great! show me a picture will be nice, lol
0
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Replying to @SavageLau :
Im a bit confused on how to Install the non bambu version of the light in it
1
Reply
wow
2
Reply
Print Profile
Colored, seperate plates
unfortunately, my A1 failed to print the joints 4 times. At layer 79 to 81 (just before the bridge gap closes), the thin overhang layer morphs up and nozzle then hits it. as a mitigation, I paused printing around 79 and carefully ‚lowered‘ the bend parts with a cutter knife. Tedious, but did the trick 👍 2nd hint: re-calculate purge and 0.6 is NOT enough. gave me slightly infused layers around the eyes. still, an awesome model!
1
Reply
I play tis game at chucy chees Ol the time
1
Reply

License

This work is licensed under a Standard Digital File License.

You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees.