Magilla Gorilla, the star of "The Magilla Gorilla Show" by Hanna-Barbera that aired from 1963 to 1965.

Magilla Gorilla is a fun-loving yet trouble-prone gorilla who spends his time languishing in the front display window of Melvin Peebles' pet shop, eating bananas and being a drain on the shop's finances. He is invariably only purchased for a short time, typically by some thieves who needed a gorilla to break into a bank or by an advertising agency looking for a mascot for their new product. The customers always ended up returning Magilla.

No supports are required. One piece, arm_right, contains built-in braces for easier printing. An optional part without the braces is provided.

The assembled model is 270mm tall.

Enjoy!

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Special shoutout to maker Benoît Lussier for providing QA printing and quality feedback.

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**Print Instructions:**
Supports: No
Resolution: .2mm
Infill: 10%

Notes:**

Refer to the notes below for a few helpful printing and assembly instructions.

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**Building the model**

Colors

Black: (Paramount3D PLA - Black)
eye_blacks (file contains two identical pieces)
eyebrow_left
eyebrow_right
buckle_front_left
buckle_front_right
buckle_back_top
buckle_back_bottom
buttons (file contains six identical pieces)
laces_top (file containes two identical pieces)
laces_middle (file contains four identical pieces
laces_bottom (file contains two identical pieces)
..

Skin: (Paramount3d PLA - Dark Complextion)
face
cane
..

Brown: (PolyTerra PLA - Army Brown)
head
body_bottom
body_top
arm_left
arm_right
arm_right_without_brace (optional piece)
legs (file contains two pieces
..

Dark Brown: (Hatchbox PLA - Brown)
shoe_left
shoe_right
..

Green: (Hatchbox PLA: - Green)
strap_top
strap_bottom
hatband
..

Blue: (Paramount3D PLA - Autobot Blue)
tie
hat
collar
..

Red: (3DFuel PLA - Iron Red)
pants
..

White: (Overture PLA - White)
eye_white_left
eye_white_right
handkerchief
..

Any color: (hidden piece):
pin_head
pin_legs
pin_body_bottom
..

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**Printing and assembly tips**

Printing tips
1 - No supports are required. One piece, arm_right, contains built-in braces. An optional part without the braces is also included if you have excellent bad adhesion or want to add tight slicer supports instead.

2 - There are some pieces that may need brims or rafts, use your discretion. When setting up my prints I prefer to be conservative to ensure the least chance of a print failure, especially since the base of many parts are hidden when inserted into another part.

*I did not use any brims or rafts

3 - The collar part printed fine for me using my default settings, but was a little misshapen when Benoit printed his. It would be a good idea to print this part at the low end of the temperature range for your filament and at a lower print speed if you have any issues with it. Most of the part is covered/hidden, so any defects will not show anyway.

4 - A number of black parts are small and easy to drop and lose one. I printed out doubles of all of them (a few did get lost in the wormhole under my desk).

5 - When removing parts from the printer bed, it's a **VERY** good idea to place left/right parts into separate containers to help with the assembly process. Sometimes the difference between the left and right parts is very small but it is still worth keeping track of them and assembling them in their proper place.

..
Assembly tips:

1 - Take your time gluing the model together and enjoy the process. Give some thought into which parts to glue together as groups and then gluing the groups together. Let the glue for each group set completely before combining groups.

2 - I used 3D Gloop and E6000 to put this model together. I am not affiliated with 3D Gloop but have experimented with different glues for my models and have found that this glue is a great option for my models. Each type of glue has different pros/cons and I found that 3D Gloop was far easier to use than superglue (for me). The E6000 sticky glue that I also use allows more time to position parts and is still the best for smaller parts. 3D Gloop covers the middle ground for me and really works wonders. It leaves enough time to set, so parts can be positioned correctly and it dries fast enough to hold awkward parts without the need for taping. I used the PLA version that comes in a tube. For both glues using a smaller amount is usually better than more glue.

3 - The model is straightforward to build, however the strap_bottom needs a little extra attention. I put the body_bottom and pin into the pants first. I then placed the strap_bottom over it and squeezed the back portion of the strap_bottom so it fit into the pants. I then pushed the part fully into place. I then placed and glued in the rest of the body and strap_top.

Benoit took a different approach since I ask him to assembly the model without any instructions from me and give his feedback:
- He glued the full body together with the strap_bottom and strap_top (using rubber bands to hold it in while the glue set).
- He then placed the whole part above the pants and tilted the complete body assembly in the front direction to present the 4 portions of the strap bottom into the 4 front pants slots. He entered the slots completely about 5 times back and forth to enlarge the slots a little.
-For the final assembly (it is very important): He engaged the back first by tilting the assembly backward. After that he pulled the pants in the lateral direction to enlarge both back openings (both slots) at the same time that he pushed in the body assembly.
-When both portions of the bottom strap were engaged on the back, he tilted the body assembly toward the front to engage the 4 strap portions into the 4 slots.

4 - I had no problem inserting the hat into the hand, but Benoit broke the thumb during his build. So, do not rush this part and gently insert the hat into the hand.

5 - Refer to the assembly diagrams in the pictures section as well as the uploaded pictures for putting the model together. The model is meant to be glued.

Do not hesitate to ask questions, feedback is essential to making better models.