The ultimate Panda Touch Dock V2.0.1 for BBL P1x by gerdjentz

gerdjentz

3D Printer>3D Printer Accessories

Print Profile(4)

All

P1P

P1S

X1 Carbon

X1E

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 20% infill

Designer

3.7 h

2 plates

5.0(6)

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 20% infill

3.6 h

2 plates

5.0(6)

AMS Riser Panda touch V2.0 Adapter

48 min

1 plate

5.0(1)

AMS Riser V2 by maCyo42

1.5 h

1 plate

Boost

153

245

394

277

Released

Description

Magnetic dock for Bigtreetech Panda Touch display for P1 series with hidden stock display.

The video shows an earlier version, but works the same!

Updates:
V2.0.1: Added cutout to the MAIN_BODY for new revision of the Pogo PCB with diode

You need:

Printed parts (MAIN_BODY_V2.0.x for 10mm magnets, MAIN_BODY_8MM_V2.0.x for 8mm magnets)
I’m working on an easier way for the connection and change the description when done. As for now: USB-A to USB-C cable 90° angle. Get a cable with the most slim USB-C plug you can find. I used this one …
https://www.amazon.de/SUNGUY-Rechtwinklig-Schnelllade-Synchronisierungskabel-Kompatibel-Schwarz/dp/B07H95NY5Y
2x screw M3x12 socket head cap
3x strong magnet 10x2mm or 8x3mm (print the right version of MAIN_BODY for the magnets). Thicker magnets up to 4mm will fit too.

Steps to get this thing working:

Print all parts: 1x MAIN_BODY_V2.0.x for 10mm magnets, or 1x MAIN_BODY_8MM_V2.0.x for 8mm magnets, 2x DOCK_GUIDE_V2.0, 1x DISPLAY_PLATE_V2.0.
See printing guideline below.
Mount the DOCK_GUIDE parts to the MAIN_BODY by pushing them trough the holes from backside. Use some glue to lock them in place.
Push the magnets into the MAIN_BODY. Watch the orientation of magnets! They must attract to the magnets of the Panda Touch display!
Switch off the printer and remove the power cord!
Remove the P1 display from the printer. Unscrew the 2 M3 screws from the printer frame behind the display (we don't need them, so keep the screws in a safe place)
Unscrew the backplate of the P1 display, remove the backplate and mount the DISPLAY_PLATE to the display with the same screws. Don‘t overthighten the screws!
Remove the pogo pins PCB from the Panda Touch dock by unscrewing the 4 screws. Keep these screws for next step!
Mount the pcb with the 4 screws to the mainpart. Don’t overthighten, we screw into plastic!
We need to modify the angled USB-C plug a bit. Use a sharp knife and cut away the rubber parts from the plug. Most important is the thickness of max. 5mm. Check photos for reference. Otherwise the connector won't fit through the hole on the front of the printer. If you find a suitable smaller plug let me know.
We need to unscrew the AP board and move it a bit away from the front frame to get clearance for the USB cable.
Don't worry, its not that complicated. You don't have to disconnect anything, just be careful with the cables (antenna, camera, …)
Follow the description Bambulabs Wiki
Route the USB cable through the hole from inside the printer to the front and plug it into the USB socket behind the frame.
Reassemble the AP board
Connect the USB-C plug to the pcb and route the cable into the channel as shown.
Use 2 M3x12 screws to mount the new dock to the printer.
Connect the P1 display.
Push the P1 display into the new dock, its a snug fit. Don’t clamp any cables.
Power on the printer. P1 display is working, right?
Now check if you are getting 5V DC at the pogo pins with a multimeter. +5V = most right pogo pins, GND = most left pogo pins.
If all is good you can put the Panda Touch onto the new dock.
Congratulations: you are done :-)

Printing guideline:

Place the parts in the slicer as shown. The parts print without support using break away support for the MAIN_BODY. It consists of two bodies, don't separate them in the slicer. After the print break away the supporting part by pushing/pressing at the marked area. The support part should just snap off.
Use the filament of your choice (I used PC-CF), 0.2mm layerheight, 5 Bottom/Top layers, 3 perimeters, 15-20% infill Gyroid, 100% fan for overhangs.

Disclaimer:

Use at your own risk. I‘m not responsible for any damages.

Comment & Rating (95)

@philch

Great design! Glad as you advised to wait for V2, this one is perfect and looks great on my P1S, thank you. Some comments: 1. You should put a comment about the magnets in your description (btw, I used 10x4mm magnets which are perfect as they generally are 10x3.5 :) and fit perfectly). The original Panda Touch magnets are not all installed with the north or south pole up, people need to make sure they are installed right side up otherwise it will repel the Panda Touch rather than attract it (I made this mistake!) and if you put them the wrong way, it will be a pain to remove without destroying your model. Best way is to just stick the magnets to the panda touch (the top 3 only as the bottom 2 are facing the other way) and note the way they go in properly. 2. The original PCB screws are a little too long (or your holes a little too shallow), I used 2.5mm washer to avoid the screws pushing through the dock face. I made a clip-on cover for the top hole for that finished look but even without it your dock looks incredible! I also made a very small connector for connecting it taking idea from your V1.1 version and also made a jst PH2 female to USBA male adapter for the internal connection

(Edited)

@pfluger

Would you mind sharing the clip on cover? That definitely gives it that final touch.

@philch

Replying to @pfluger :

Sure but I just don't know how to do it :)

@philch

Replying to @philch :

OK, I figured it out, It is here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/196766

@Cjwelcome

Boosted

The print profile is no longer public

this is the model I saw on Facebook and have been waiting for! can’t wait to assemble it this afternoon! great work man😌EDIT after getting the usb-c cable figured out I ended up cutting and soldering my own as I really wish that opening in the P1S was just ever so slightly larger it would fit a generic one from Amazon but oh well it looks fantastic and no cables to run anywhere and I also made a slight edit to the AMs riser piece to fit your mount properly!

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@Cjwelcome

Boosted

Small request, would you be able to post a version using 8mm magnet holes like the ones that come on the panda touch mount already? They are 8x3 if im not mistaken.

@gerdjentz

Replying to @Cjwelcome :

I uploaded a 2nd version of MAIN_BODY for 8mm magnets.

(Edited)

@HarryKlynn

The print profile is no longer public

Kudos man for the design! One thing I would do differently, that small diplay_plate, it's a little thick and makest the screws protrude. But, no big deal, I ended up removing it and put some hot glue to keep everything in place. Now it works perfectly! Thanx again.

The designer has replied

@gerdjentz

That’s weird, using the original screws the little plate should fit perfectly with no protruding screws and stuff. See attached photo. Maybe there are different display models out there. But I‘m glad fixed it 👍

@HarryKlynn

Replying to @gerdjentz :

Totally different screws on mine, so keep that in mind. Thanx again.

@baSTLer

Best Panda Touch mount/dock so far! Printed with ease and fitment is absolute amazing. Managed to route the USB cable without removing the AP board although it was a bit fiddly. Thanks for sharing this model! :)

The designer has replied

@gerdjentz

Thanks a lot 👍

@FatherGroup

How did you achieve it?

@Ben.255

Looks fantastic! It appears that BTT updated the power board, adding an additional component below the right pogo pins. It is 1mm thick and I have attached a photo showing the placement. I was able to modify the mount with a Dremel, but you might want to add clearance for it in your model.

The designer has replied

@gerdjentz

I already updated the main part with the cutout for the diode some days ago (V2.0.1). I seems you printed the older version. I‘m glad you sorted the issue with a Dremel 👍

@Toymanzz

Great print. I just finished mine, came out really nice. The only thing I did find I had a problem with was the Pogo pins PCB board. I'm not sure if this is a new addition to the board or not. When looking at the mount from the front, the pins on the right will not stick all the way out the front. After looking at it, I realize there's a little what I call diode underneath the Pogo pins on that right side. That little diode is preventing the PCB board from sitting flat against your mount. Instead of reprinting it. I took an exacto knife and just carved a little bit of the plastic out, to make room for that diode. The board now sits flush and the pin sticks out fully. I also did have a problem with the screws coming out the front of the mount and had to add a washer when using the old screws from the Pogo pin board.

The designer has replied

@gerdjentz

Thank you. You are right, BTT changed the PCB. I added a cutout to the MAIN_BODY for the diode. 👍

(Edited)

@jamesnwalsh

The print profile is no longer public

This is a well thought out design. It made my P1S look more like an X1C 😎. I like that you can’t see the usb cable. I like the push out part for support. I print mainly in ABS so this worked well for support.