My daughter is all about dinosaurs and pink right now, so I made her a “Rawr!” night light using a public-domain drawing.

This one is fun because the teeth, eyebrows, and limbs all protrude out from the box not to be illuminated, but to be backlit and show up against the bias lighting generated from the translucent walls.

Please excuse the over-exposure. I hate photographing these things because they look so much better to the human eye!

I've provided two different bases:

1. Standoffs for a 40x60mm prototyping board if you need to use components that do not have easy mounting options (I incorporated a Mini560 buck converter and an LD06AJSA driver for mine), with a plain 7.8mm 5.5x2.1 DC jack.
2. A more standard mounting option for a Wemos D1 Mini v3.0, AOD4184 LED driver, and snap-in USB-C insert.

If you plan on using some regular WS2812B LEDs, all you need is the D1 Mini base. If you're going to throw some COB LEDs in, add a driver like the AOD4184 (mountable) or a wee little LD06AJSA (free-floating).

I built mine with the first base and threw some pink COB LEDs in it, and it's glorious. Be warned - some of the features may be too tight to jam SMD LEDs in.

You could of course use the first base to just directly wire in some LEDs to a power source and incorporate an inline dimmer/timer to a 5.5x2.1 jack (7.8mm body), or the USB-C base and bypass the D1 mini setup completely. I wanted the D1 Mini to incorporate schedules with WLED, as well as slaving this light to a room presence sensor. I will warn that the Mini560 buck converter puts out a little whine when the light is at low power levels, so do not honestly recommend that option if you're sensitive to such things.

The choice is yours!

As for printing, the face is four colors.

1. A clear or “natural” PLA used for the walls of the face (I used FilaCube HT-PLA+)
2. A black PLA (I used eSun Black PLA+)
3. A light/cold shade of white (I used eSun Cold White PLA+)
4. A different/warm shade of white (I used eSun Bone White PLA+)

You can of course change these colors around, but a darker shade for the body and a lighter shade for the accents (eyeballs, back strips, belly, teeth) helps it stand out if you're using colored LEDs. If you're using white LEDs, I'd suggest playing with your color options in Studio to make sure you're happy with the choices.

The base uses two colors - a black and silk silver PLA. The silver reflector layers print with a slow top surface speed for extra shiny. This is of course optional, you could use any light material or just leave it black if you'd like. The base prints at 0.28mm height except for the top portion, which prints at 0.20mm height just for definition of the screw holes.

The two screw holes in the body of the print are for M1.7x5 panhead self-tapping screws and secure the two halves together without the need for adhesives. This is of course optional and you could just glue it together if you'd like.

Note: the mouth on the base will want to pull up from the plate due to it's shape and position on the plate. Make sure your plate is clean and turn your AUX fan down to no more than 40% or it may try to warp on you!