Supplementary chamber lighting for the Bambu Lab X1C/P1S with AMS, using COB LED Light Strips

For use with the configuration where the AMS sits on top of the printer. The light attaches to the handle on the printer's glass lid. Quick and easy to remove.

Printing:

Printed in Bambu PETG Basic (Grey) on the smooth PEI plate with Bambu liquid glue.

Support is needed on parts of the models. Lightly sand these surfaces for a snug but not tight fit, if necessary. I find I get the best surface finish and tolerance for horizontal overhangs by using PLA as a solid interface layer on top of the support for a PETG part (or PETG as support interface for a PLA part). I use 4 Top interface layers and 0 Top interface spacing to give a dense interface. One of the build plates is configured that way (with PLA interfaces) if you want to try it. Two of the photos show the lock plug printed in PETG with a red PLA interface.

If there is a slight ‘bow’ in the LED Strip Lamp when it cools after printing it can be straightened by reheating on the build plate (at 80C for PETG) with toothpicks or some other spacers under the ends and a weight in the middle to bend it slightly the other way, for about 20 minutes, then let it cool in position. Adjust heating time and spacers as required.

Hardware:

Cut the COB LED strip into 5 x 250mm lengths. I used 24awg flexible silicone wire to connect the strips. I've included a model of a jig you can print to hold the wires and LED strips in position for soldering. Print the jig in PETG or ASA (not PLA) and print a few of them as they'll probably melt. Carefully clean and lightly abrade the surface of the copper pads on the COB LED strips for good solder joints.

1 x 8mm x 1.25m COB LED strip (I used a 5v USB strip ~ 5.5 watts)

24awg Flexible Silicone Wire

(the links to hardware items are for illustrative purposes. I have no affiliation with the sellers of these items)

Use:

Place the lamp on to the printer's glass lid handle and slide to the left. Insert the lock plug.

Pros and cons:

It works with the AMS in place on top of the printer with no modifications or risers and is quick and easy to remove.

It creates some shadows but it helps a lot with the darker filaments when monitoring the print remotely.