Summary

I loved this (design)[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4968905] but I hated how it was open top so I remixed it and created a lid and altered the designs a bit. Please note I am not very good at cad It seems like when screwing in the lid it moves the plastic around a bit (sub 1mm) but can cause some issues with all the screw holes lining up.

The lid is designed so that it is flush with the rack ears once mounted.

Be careful with supports on these models, I found its best to do them manually if required as doing it with automatic supports often ends up with material in the m5 threaded rod channel which often results in the inability to insert the rods more then a little.

I've also tried to provide a bit more detail about the required hardware as the original description often did not advise how long each screw needed to be.

Required Hardware;

16 M4x4x6 threaded heat inserts.

16 M2x6mm screws for faceplates

8 m4x12mm for rack ears

4 m2x4mm for oled screen

8 m4x12mm to attach lid (M3.5x8mm will do in a pinch)

5 USB 3.0 Keystones

4 HDMI Keystones

1 Ethernet Keystone

3 M5 Threaded bar to add rigidity to frame (I used 200mm long segments but you could definitely do longer)

4 30CM Dupoint wire (male - female) to act as an extension cable for the oled screen.

1 USB-C Right angle adapter

4 short HDMI cables

5 short USB 3.0 A to A cables

1 short ethernet cable

Optional Hardware:

1 right angle usb micro adapter

1 (USB C power splitter)[https://www.tindie.com/products/8086net/usb-cpwr-splitter/] with 2.1mm DC Barrel.

1 5v power supply

1 DC Power splitter

Assembly.

Use the 2 M5 threaded bars to join the main left and right sections.

Mount the keystones onto the plates before screwing the plate into place, this should save some hassle, as the keystones are a tight fit. Use M2x6mm screws to tighten the plates down. Fill in all the screw holes, 8 on the 9 port plate and 4 on each of the smaller ones.

There are mounting holes for the ezcoo switch that use m2.5 screws however I found that did not leave enough clearance to run a cable for the USB comm port to control the switch. Thus I flipped the switch so the comm port was pointing towards the pikvm and secured it with double side tape and duct tape. If you have a right angle micro usb adapter you may be able to mount this properly.

The KVM is supposed to poke out of the back of the case, this gives a little more room to squish in the USB and HDMI cables.

(Optional)
The tindie Power splitter needs a M2.5 bolt to hold it in place. You'll connect the power splitter here and to the ezcoo, then to the mains adapter.
(End Optional)

The PI and the geekworm adapter use M2.5 bolts to hold them in place.

I've included two different models of the Left side, the original with added screw holes for the lid and another with the mounting holes for the pi4 removed as I wanted to use my existing blikvm which uses a custom board. Once again liberally using double side tape and duct tape to secure it.

On the left and right parts insert the M4x4x6 threaded heat inserts into each hole on the outside using a soldering iron.

Do the same to corresponding holes on the lid pieces. Join the lid with a single m5 threaded rod and use your soldering iron to weld the two pieces together on the "underside" of the lid to hid the weld as seen in my images.