Rewind a few years…maybe a little more than a few years.  It's 1997 - Dark Forces II came out. Thanks to the popularity of the Dark Forces II the Kyle Katarn character was absorbed into the expanded universe.  This was his first lightsaber - created by Jedi Master Qu Rahn; and passed down to Kyle by his father, Morgan. 

I don't know why, but I loved this lightsaber and it is still my favorite design to this day. I remember building it out of drain tubes, aluminum, washers and PVC pipes back in the day.  So 27 years later, I figured I would build it again on a 3D printer.  The dimensions came from a schematic I found online and a handful of pics I found.  

Like most of my designs, this model does not require any supports, brims, or glue (because I hate glue!)

Print Settings:

Layer Height: 0.15mm

Walls: 3 for the hilt pieces and ‘spacer rod’, 2 for the spacers and pommel

Infill: 15% overall, 0% for the brass strip and shroud

Filament:

• Sunlu Silk PLA Black
• Sunlu Silk PLA Copper
• Sunlu Silk PLA Silver
• Sunlu Silk PLA Brass
• Overature Matte Black PLA

Assembly Notes:

**Note that parts have been positioned to hide Z seams where possible.  If some parts are tight… I use glass cleaner (the same I use on my print bed) to slick things up temporarily if needed.  Refer to the attached images that show the assembly steps listed below.

1. Attach the spacer rod to the mid-section
2. Stack the first 5 spacers (2 silver, 2 black, 1 copper) on the spacer rod. For the silver spacers, the bevel should be top facing.  
3. Attach the shroud to the mid section.  First insert the tab closest to the cutout for the control box.  You will then need to push with some force to flex the shroud until the second tab pops into place (don't worry - it will be ok).  Now you can slide the shroud down about ¼" on the mid-section to lock it into place.
4. You can now install the ‘locking spacer’ that will line up with the tabs at the top of the shroud.  Once everything is lined up, you can screw down the top black spacer followed by the emitter parts.
5. Connect the the buttons to the control box, then slide it into the mid section. Note that the top brass ‘button’ will lock in tightly with the shroud.
6. Screw the hilt and pommel into the mid section until snug.  Note that the screw hole on the pommel should be centered with the front of the saber hilt.
7. Slide the brass strip into the control box until the screw holes lines up (between the strip and the pommel).
8. Attach the screw with a 4mm allen key.  If you do not have one, you can print the screw tool I have included; this tool includes a thread reamer and 4mm allen key.

I hope you all enjoy this one as much as I enjoyed designing it!