Bicycle Handle Bar Mount for 1/4

Designed to replace a store-bought handle bar mount that could support a device w/a 1/4"-20 threaded nut.

After buying 2 of them and having both of them break on me, I decided it would be fun to recreate the mount but make a few improvements, which include:

• Reinforcing the areas that were susceptible to breaking because they had very thin walls.
  
• Increased the size of the thumbscrew that tightens the ball-joint to make it easier to adjust the angle and un/tighten.

Print all the parts once. Use this info as a guideline:

• Print each in the orientation in the STLs.
  
  • Top Mount will need support. Make sure to add support to the arch and the area around the joints.
    
  • Ball Joint will need either: manual supports (Simplify3D), a raft, or a brim in addition to supports to keep it from popping off the plate.
    
• Use 3 shells and at least 30-50% infill. The big thumbscrew needs at least 50%.
  
• I used PETG plastic for a stronger/heat resistant part. It'll print well in PLA and can be strong... just won't hold up over hours of hot TX summer heat.
  

Build of Materials

• 1 1/2" section of 1/4"-20 threaded rod (I dremel'd off the head of a 1/4"-20 screw)
  
• 2x 1/4"-20 nut (1 is just used for assembly)
  
• M4x40 socket head screw
  
• 2x M4 nut
  
• 1/16" nail or rivet - cut to 24mm
  
• Gorilla glue
  
• a 1" wide strip of rubber to use on the handle bars to restrict the mount from slipping.
  

Assemble

• Clean up the ball on the ball joint part by removing all support material. Don't worry about making the bottom of the ball perfect. Don't over polish/smooth the ball. Some friction is required to allow it to be locked in place.
  
• Take the 1/4"-20 threaded section and add 2 nuts on the end that will be exposed for mounting a device. Tighten the 2 nuts against each other to lock them in place. This will give us leverage to get the threaded rod screwed in.
  
• Add some Gorilla glue inside the top of the ball joint that will receive the 1/4"-20 threaded rod. This will be used to lock the threaded rod in place.
  
• Screw the threaded rod into the top of the ball joint. Use the 2 nuts to tighten the rod all the way down the hole (12mm). Set aside and allow to dry.
  
• With the smaller thumbscrew, add a small amount of gorilla glue along the outer wall of the hole for the nut. Place the nut in the hole and tape it down (or put a weight on the thumbscrew/nut. Gorilla glue foams to conform to the area it's bonding, so you need to keep the nut from being pushed out. Set aside to dry.
  
• Join the top/bottom clamp pieces. Take the 24mm length of nail/rivet and insert thru holes in joints. Use a 1/16" drillbit to clean the holes to make it easier to insert.
  
• Insert one M4 nut into the top opening on the Top Clamp.
  
• Insert the other M4 nut on to the top of the knob.
  
• Insert the M4x40mm screw thru the Knob and tighten to M4 nut.
  
• Insert the completed knob thru the bottom part of the clamp to tighten with the top clamp.
  
• Once the ball joint is dry, remove the 2 nuts from the threaded rod. Loosen them against each other to remove.
  
• Carefully (very carefully) insert the ball joint into the top post on the clamp. This is a very tight fit which will require a slow/delicate insertion so you don't break the threaded walls. The walls will flex out a bit to allow the ball to seat fully in place.
  
• Insert the large thumbscrew over the ball joint and tighten. It might be easier to add a lubricate to the thumbscrew before tightening to help against plastic-on-plastic friction.
  
• Add the small thumbscrew to the threaded rod.
  

Additionally, I glued a small round piece of rubber to the top of the smaller thumbscrew to help in keeping things from moving.