3D model description
There's a ton of speaker enclosures out there, but not a lot that sound particularly good. So I took a crack at it and came up with this set using some proper math and techniques - They sound great! I had originally posted this with a higher cost (because I think they're awesome), but it is a rather costly build and the price of speakers is all over the place since I designed this. Figured I'd make it inexpensive enough to take some of the sting/risk out of that.
A few quick notes. All the screws are M3. I'll circle back and make a list if there's much interest in this, but it's safe to say you'll need quite a few of them in a variety of sizes (there's also a fair bit of filament to get the volumes we need). I've done my best to keep key components adjustable by someone with basic modeling skills. Such has including "blanks" if you want to make amounting plate for different speakers. Those components are also separated from the larger ones to minimize the need to redo especially long prints. The spacers between the front covers and the body are easily scalable if you have a thicker speaker.. Etc.. Oh yeah - The "mid_front_plate_lo.stl" file offers a slightly larger opening, if needed.
The mids were made to be of sufficient size to to get some decent range out of them. You'll want to pack the inside back half of these to minimize sound waves deflecting of that flat surface - I used some "safe and sound" wall insulation left over from a recent reno job. Anything along those lines should do. I've included mounts to use them as desktop speakers or to attach them to a wall.
I'm particularly happy with the sub tube. Each section of the body is 1/10 of a cubit foot - This makes it easy to increase the volume of the enclosure if you want to adjust the tuning. I went for a 7" inner diameter for a nice round number when looking for clearance. The sets we printed use 5 outer shells to get .5 cubic feet of space. We then use 3x5-inch and 1x1-inch port extensions. Adding on the end cap and mounting plate gets us a 18" port with an inner diameter of 2". This results in a tuning frequency of about 29 hz. The threads are pretty tight on the couplers. We've gotten around that with soapy water or cooking spray, and a little sanding for a particularly grippy one. This should be a fairly air-tight fit.. I did use a smear of silicone here and there to ensure we had a good seal - Especially on the sub (if you're getting odd squeaking noises form the sub, this is likely what's up - My first test sub had a pretty good leak behind the speaker). The feet are a soft TPU, attached with superglue.
Port calculator if you want to mess with this:
http://www.mobileinformationlabs.com/HowTo-1Woofer-Box-CAL%20Port%20lenth%201.htm
As for the parts I used, those are below. Since the initial design, we've used a few different 4" mids and different banana connectors. The tweaks that were needed for changing out parts were pretty minor.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00G9T0RJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B09L4372H3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06Y9129X1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0071HY42K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That's all for now - As I mentioned, I'll circle back and update as needed if there's interest or if I missed anything.
3D printing settings
The bezel should be the only component that needs supports. The rest is straight forward and prints fairly easily.