xyzprinting da vinci nozzle upgrade xyz printing

i am making these to sell on ebay if you want one and do not have the tools or patiance of making these they are a lot of milling so far i have 3 single cooling blocks about 8 heat blocks and 1 or 2 duo blocks

also there are 2 differant duo blocks the old style has 2 screws to hold to the box and the new style has 1 screw and a square block i have made templets for both but have not uploaded them yet not till i get all the bugs out of these templets

the duo templet that is here is the new style

i do not have the tubes or temp sensors the tubes also have to be milled they have to be cut to 34mm and the end to the inlet side threads has to be miled down to clear the guide wheels and end to be cut with a dremmal to keep them from shreading filament as it goes in i have not found any that do not have a sharp end going in and i have orderd quite a few

and i also have to find tubes that do not break when you tighten the nut on the cooling block i think i have found some with the last ones i purchased seem to be pretty strong

so waiting on new month to order these parts

i am still working on templets to get idot proof blocks and i am the idot to proove that it works so there are more templets that i have not uploaded still working on them

if you have a PRO modle you can print and use the E3D drop in some pepole have had good

luck with this drop in and i have noticed that E3D has droped thier nozzles to a more

reasonable price others not so much that drop in only works for the PRO moddle and can not

be used on other xyz non bowden printers

this mod should work on all xyz printers

you can use any standard heat block except E3D with this mod i have tried these blocks and

had nothing but problems and calibrate by hand

i have ben calibrating xyz nozzles by hand for quite some time because xyz calibration

always sets the higth way to high and is just a pain in the butt

now you have the option of setting the calibration higth for your own preferance and i am

finding that using xyz calibration is better than manual esp for the DUO

and ++++ now you do not have to tear the whole dam thing apart to fix a pluged nozzle just

using a wire to clean the nozzle only works for a while because all you are doing is

pushing what ever blocked the nozzle up and eventualy it will move back down and block

again when you least expect it like a 5 hour print at the last 5 layers

to set the calibration screw set the nozzle down on the bed by using the home function

then hand crank the y screw till the nozzle is down on the bed does not matter how hard it

is on the bed then using thickness guides set the DUO to .50mm and on the AIO set to .25mm

i am now noticing that i am able to use the normal setting in xyzware for printing with

good quality prints i have never ben able to use this setting with out pretty bad print

quality

you will see by the print pictures how much of a improvment this upgrade is to the

standard xyz nozzle and it is worth the time to mill the parts
i have made pictures of recyled filament sure any nozzle can print good prints with good

filament but the trick is can it print good quality prints
with crapy filament

all these prints was done using a brand new xyz stock nozzles with out my fan upgrade
my aio and DUo used to print perfect prints for the first year then they both started

printing pretty poorly
so i bought a new nozzle ,print bed,ect ect and nothing i did solved this problem
the black xyz single carrage was printed on my aio with good filament you can see the

horable print job that xyz did and the perfect print of this mod
the green parts are using crapy recycled filament you can see that the xyz nozzle has

holes and realy bad layering while this mod has perfect layerss

a while back some body told me if i could make a better nozzle than E3D that i should do

it because they swear by E3D and say that nothing can be made better so here it is

i am also looking into using PTFE coated tube these would have on the outside of the tube

will be coated with the PTFE so that there is 0 heat transfer to the inside with PTFE tube

and outside directing all the heat to the nozzle and then you can use the higher heat

block like the E3D and making my heat block with screw Higher the Higher block is better

because more threads on the tube can be used inside the heat block for a straighter

assembly but right now it is bad news to much heat going up the outside of the tube these

would increse the price a lot they are realy expensive

also looking at mixing carbon grafite with paint to insulate the tube from the heat block

only on the heat block not on the heat sink that has to have the max heat transfer to the

cooling block

i was arguing about E3D nozzles that i think that they are not worth the money as they

realy have not done anything other than put available parts and put thier name on it and

charge a exorbiant price do not get me wrong E3D nozles are good in open style printers

with lots of air flow to cool them but they realy strugle to keep cool in a enclosed box

and XYZ nozles are much superior nozles xyz has eleminated all the problems of a seperate

block and nozle like ooz from around the nozzle of corse if you put a E3D nozle together

properly you can avoid this problem but xyz has sloved all these problems of alighnment

cooling oozing they are in my opinion the leading edge tecnolagy in nozzles and while E3D

nozzles was the best in my opinion E3D nozles are now jersacik old tecnolagy

but xyz nozzles also create a few other problems that are not apparent untill you try to

put the math on it the first problem is the heat block only makes contacact with about 30%

of the heat element making the heat elament work harder to heat the block second is the

heat chamber of the xyz nozzle is not large enough to push melted filament smoth at a high

rate third is the heat block is realy small making the heat elament work realy hard to

keep up with the flow this is where E3D and standard nozzles are much better in these

departments
however E3D heat blocks are to high heating the tube more than the nozzle they have tried

to
elieveat this problem by moving the heat elament down level with the nozzle but this still

does
not solve the tube from heating and causing a lot of jams so they then added a lot of fins

to slove
this problem but the fins and fan are to high up the tube it has to be cooled as close to

the heat block
as possable this is where xyz nozzle are superior xyz has made a huage heat exchange close

to the
heat block as you can see niether xyz or E3D nozzles have the perfect solution

and one other thing that realy makes me made about E3D is no where can you find print

tests to compare
do other nozzles because i believe there is no differance in print quality to other

nozzles
the basic process is the same to melt filament and push it through a small hole
putting E3D on the out side does not make these simple process work any better

so i wanted to keep the best of XYZ and the best of standard print nozzles
i wanted to keep the tube but the nozzle thread dia and the xyz tube end are 2 compleatly

differant
animals while i think it is possable and i think i have found what i believe is the right

thread so i am still
working on keeping this just waiting on delievery from china

i have ben real heasadent on posting this as it is a complicated procedure to make these

parts i was wanting to start to sell these on Ebay but find that this is just more than i

can phisacly do i would only be able to make maby 5 a week

and because of the complication of making these i just can not describe how exactly to

make them if you have worked in a machine shop these are pretty easy but to discribe to

somebody else who has no shop experiance with simple tools i am strugeling to do

neaded
drill press
cut off tool or hack saw
2.5mm drill bit
5.5mm drill bit
6mm drill bit
3x10mm screw and bolt
3x.5mm tap
6x1mm tap

the idea is to replace the heat exchange block and heat block with m6 threads for standard

3d printing parts

also print the hacksaw start guide if you do not have a cut off tool to help to keep the

cut on the pieces straight
print the guides

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