Zombie Control Collar V6.0

Version 6 is here!

What's new?
For starters, this one is smaller. Designed to fit a 16-17 inch neck, the old one, up to 22" The adjusters can be tweaked to enlarge the diameter, and I will be providing some larger hinges and front latches as well. For now, if you need a larger one, print the V2.0 collar. The collar is actually supposed to be pretty snug on your neck.

You will notice there are a lot more individual parts. This should help during the finishing stage, making it easier to sand. I will probably post some "Quick Prints" where some parts are combined, I'm not sure it really will save any time though.

The profiles for the Quadrants are closer to the screen used version.
Wire routing is much cleaner.
Redesigned hinge and adjuster pockets.
Upper quads have accommodations for real allen head screws.

The Battery compartment has been totally redesigned, and no longer requires a screw for battery removal.
There are 2 versions of the battery compartment posted. If you have time, and your prints are pretty good, I recommend you print V2 of the battery compartment. It's a lot more assembly, but way cooler! It does require a brass contact made from 0.16in X 0.25in brass stock. I got mine at a local hardware store for $1.50. I have printed 2 copies of the new battery compartment so far. You will probably need to do some sanding and trimming depending on how accurate your printer is. Most of my trimming was just sanding the parts.

I finally was able to model the cables, and get them to print. The wire models include the supports, so you will need to cut them off and clean the part up a little. The new cables are much closer in size and configuration to the screen used versions.

I might be a little obsessed with Zombie control collars. If you haven't seen the movie Fido it really is worth a watch!

If you make one of these feel free to add your input on printability and design.
I may tweak a few parts here and there, other than that this prop is ready to print assemble and wear!

Added battery screw for reference. It is hard to print, you can order the real deal from McMaster Carr.
The Battery compartment has been designed to accommodate a 123A Lithium battery. It lasts many hours, and is readily available. Version one of the Battery door and Battery compartment have holes in them so you can use a needle or a pin as a hinge pin.

I used IDE ribbon cable wires for the LEDs. I have included a wiring diagram for the LEDs, The resistors can go on either side of the LED, and there are many places to put them in the model. The parts include conduits for the wire. to power the LED on the side that does not have a battery compartment, pass a wire through the conduit just under the hinge.

K&J Magnetics
12.6mmx5mm Disks from N35 ZD3 Amazingly strong given their size. (4 Required)

Digikey supplied the Resistors and battery components
CF14JT10K0CT-ND 8.3 Ohm 1/4W Resistor (2 Required)
36-5223-ND CONTACT BATT W/TABS POSITVE A/AA (1 Required)
36-5201-ND CONTACT BATT W/TAB NEG SPRG A/AA (1 Required)

SuperbrightLEDS.com
RL5-R3545 2.6V 50MA Clear Red LEDS. (2 required)

Mc Master Carr
Part Number 91390A183 Set Screw (1 Required)
Part Number 91290A073 Alloy Screw (16 Required) Trim off the threads or drill parts.

Conduit
From an LED snake light I found on Amazon http://amzn.com/B003SSAEZ2 (Not required if you print the cable parts.)

Red "Lights"
Acrylic Round Rod, Translucent Red, 1/2" Diameter, 2' Length
https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Round-Translucent-Diameter-Length/dp/B00EVBTQ18/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476491970&sr=8-1&keywords=acrylic++rod+red

Hardware Store
0.16in X 0.25in brass stock (0.42mm X 6.4mm) Brass stock for V2 Battery compartment contact

The chain plate had been included for reference. I did not print mine on the printer. Instead I took a pice of flat bar steel and glued (Welded actually) a half a link of chain to it. The sides of the collar have places to put magnets in to hold the chain anchor on. This way if anyone pulls too hard on the chain it pops off, protecting you and the prop! I got plastic chain at Lowes, and painted it silver.

Please note, this is NOT a screen accurate model, some liberties were taken, and parts were modified to simplify construction, and printing.

The parts in this model an be printed with minimal/no supports. The rear quadrants have a perforated web at the bottom to aid in bed adhesion, They will need to be cut off.

Here is the list of parts that should be required to print. Some parts like the light bases have their own files so you can print them separately if you have a print failure or what not.

Fido Print list
1) BaseEndsMonts Sander- Includes a contoured sanding block two light bases and 4 endcaps for the rear quadrants
2) Front Upper Quads- Glue to the top of the Lower quads after sanding and attaching mounts latches and bases.
1) Left_Rear_Upper Quad
1) Right_rear_Upper Quad
2) Adjuster.
1) Badge sander- Glue sandpaper to the end, make it easier to sand the “Z” badge down.
1) Badge
1) Hinge Right
1) Hinge Left
0) Chain plate. This is for dimensions only. I used a piece of flatbar steel with a chain link welded to it, so the magnets would work. You can glue the chain link to the flatbar if you can’t weld it.
1) Battery Compartment Bottom
1) V2 Battery Top Contact
1) V2 Battery door Top
1) V2 Battery Compartment Middle
1) V2 Compartment Bottom
1) V2 Battery Door Bottom
1) V2 Topmost
1) V2 MainBodyassy
1) V2 Left rear Lower Quad
1) Each of the 8 Wire files
1) Left Front Latch
1)Right Front latch
1) New Rear Greeble
1) New RR Quad
2) Basket Base
2) Basket_V1
2) Light plugs
1) Left Front Quad
1) Right Front Lower