3D model description
This is a new version of the insert made to snap into the outer part of the FLO mask.
The ring in this version is separate from the decoration that is in front of the filter.
This allows for color combinations and quick change of the decoration.
Update: a slightly improved version of the ring : V4-FLO-template-6a-ring
This set is inspired on the button markings that were used on tape deck and cassette players and recorders.
Several are still used in modern digital apps and machines, of course.
These are all based on the same grid-pattern that is also included here.
Some buttons can be created by simply inserting the decoration with the backside to the front: like Reverse = < and Fast Rewind = <<
Please note that these designs are not from and also not endorsed by the FLO-MASK manufacturer.
The designs are my personal initiative and I make no claims about safety and functionality, they are purely for visual enhancement!
I have tested these inserts myself and have not experienced any increased difficulty with breathing.
The preferred material is PETG as that is considered food-safe, odor free, flexible and quite easy to work with.
The ring is printed flat and needs to be curved by hand. In my experience this works best when coming hot off the printer.
It can also be done afterwards with a hair-dryer or hot-air blower to make the plastic slightly flexible.
Place one corner into the mask and bend the the print so that the rim catches the mask all around. After cooling it will stay in that shape. Gently heat and push out the parts that have moved inwards, to make sure that the plastic is free from the filter material.
Attention:
please make sure NOT to overheat the FLO mask part! Although it is made from Poly-Carbonate and quite strong and heat resistant it is best to warm up the clip-in on a wooden surface before mounting it in the mask.
3D printing settings
Use PETG as it is quite strong and flexible in thin prints like this.
(ABS doesn't like bending and PLA can become brittle)
Print at 230-240 degrees and bed temperature at 75 degrees.
I personally like to work with a 0.6mm nozzle because it allows for easy adjusting of the extruded line, from 0.45 to even 1 mm (slower speed, higher temp) with good bonding results.
Because of the thin lines that need to connect strongly to each other, I prefer to OVER-extrude about 20-30%, so if your normal extrusion factor is around 1,00 then increase to 1,2 -1.35.
This is often needed with the ring, that needs to be bend into the correct curve for the mask.
However, for the flat decorations it is better to use normal extrusion around 1.00, to get better details.
Additionally, you can improve the surface quality from the filled-in parts by using the "Ironing" function in your slicer.
Slicer settings: I test the result in preview with variable extrusion thickness, to make sure that all perimeters and infill are bonding.
Edit: I have also tested normal extrusion @ 1.00 and that will work too, provided that the extrusion width is correct: Check in the slicer how the perimeters bond to each other and that there is no gap between inside and outside perimeters or the ring might split when released from the printing surface. I find that adjusting the extrusion to 0.65 or 0.60 instead of the automatic 0.72mm (6mm nozzle) can improve the perimeter adhesion.
At the moment my printing surface is Kapton tape on glass.