3D model description
Want a lure that can be presented super subtly or aggressively in nearly any depth? You need a Twitch Mullet. This little guy has a very very slow sink rate, almost suspending. You can choose to sink it down all the way where it will stand up off of the bottom on its hooks, or you can walk it erratically just under the surface, or anywhere in between. This little guy rests exactly horizontally in the water. Works well with #6 trebles or slightly larger singles. Will accept #5 trebles for a slightly faster sink with no tangles. This page is specifically for the lipless twitch as seen in the image. a Lipped crank version will be available later. I'm just refining the lip design.
The material you'll need:
20-30cm of 1mm stainless wire for the hook and tie-on eye.
2x 8mm flat or holographic 3D eyes
2x 4.5mm BB's as ballast weight and rattle inserted during the print which results in a seamless final print that only needs hook eyes inserted prior to painting. Two in the belly.
I haven't finished a build video for this one yet, but feel free to watch the below video from another one of my lures to see how I do the hook and tie-on eyes. The process is identical.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_B8rJpB5Ois
Please be aware that these files are for non-commercial use only. Print one or print a million, it's up to you. You are welcome to hand them out to friends and fellow anglers. Your friend wants one but doesn't have a printer? Print it for them and have them reimburse you for the cost of the material. No problem. Just do not mass produce and sell this design.
Please respect the fact that a lot of time and effort went into making these designs and associated media. You may not under any circumstances resell the design (file) or the resultant lure made from the print at profit.
3D printing settings
The following are my suggested Cura settings. These work and work very well. after having printed 50+ lures, I know these settings are ideal. You are welcome to deviate, but you do so at your own peril.
Print the model in the orientation you find it in (upright). Do not scale. Wall thicknesses have been designed with specific line width settings and buoyancy in mind to give you the strongest possible allure while maintaining proper performance. countless hours and numbers of prototypes have gone into refining the design. Deviate and change at your own risk.
0.4mm Nozzle
Layer height- 0.16mm
Initial Layer Height- 0.2mm
Line width 0.45mm
Wall Line count- 4 (You could probably up this for a faster sink)
Fill gaps between walls Yes
Z Seam alignment User specified
Z Seam position back
Seam Corner Preference Smart Hiding
Bottom/Top thickness 1.6mm
Infill Density 10%
Infill Pattern Gyroid
Print Speed 75mm/s
Combing mode Not on skin (Important to not knock parts over)
Avoid Printed Parts when Traveling (Not on skin (Important to not knock parts over)
Travel avoidance Distance 0.625mm
Cooling is critical if printing PLA. I suggest using PLA+ at 100% colling. If you get bad surface detail/drooping/ or the support feet adhere too much to the body it is because you have inadequate cooling.
Build plate adhesion Brim
Brim line count 10
Required weights:
2 x 4.5mm BBβs in the belly channel
Weights and rattles are inserted during the printing process to decrease assembly time. I strongly suggest you review the model images for where there the weights and rattles should go and check your model during slicing to get an approximate idea of when they should be inserted. The suggested percentage is 60-70%. I prefer to slow down the printing process via the printerβs control panel to its lowest speed to insert the weights and rattles, then speed it up after insertion. You can pause the print to make it easier, but I always seem to have a perceptible misalignment after pausing which increases sanding time afterwards. Pausing negates any risk of knocking the print over. Just slowing down carries the risk of having the print head collide with your hand or a set of needle nose pliers.