Tronxy X5S anti-Z-wobble Oldham principle fast & easy

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Ok guys, this is a quick and easy anti-z-wobble fix, based on the Oldham principle. Also greatly inspired by a similar fix for the Anet A8 by Saschai (thing 1858459).

You can see how it works here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvEjBT8-pzE
As the bed is moving up, moving the Z rod from side to side by hand (to immitate a bent leadscrew), there is no lateral force pushing and pulling on the bed. Hence, any such lateral movement caused by a leadscrew that is not perfectly straight, will be negated by the anti-z-wobble mod, instead of jerking on the bed.

In case the leadscrew isn't exactly straight, it will not be able to pull or push on the X/Y direction of the bed platform. The mod pivots around one of the smooth rod flanges, so it will still drive downward & upward. It might save you the trouble of going through complicated (or expensive) mods.

Obviously, you need one on each side.

You will lose a bit of Z print volume (roughly 5mm), but i will be making a mod to reclaim the lost height soon. (EDIT: mod available and offering 20mm height gain over stock build: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3849400). Also check out my smooth rod bracket to avoid screwing the smooth rods into the frame and bending the frame in the process (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3993420).

I own an X5S-400 and tested it on that model, i assume this will also work for the regular X5S. If not, let me know and i can see if i can fix it so that it also fits the regular version.

*** UPDATE ***
Apparently, the plastic versions of the smooth rod flanges are thicker than the metal ones. I have added a version for the measurements somebody posted in the comments section.
Alfrix has made a remix also for plastic flanges. You can also check that out in the remix section.

*** NOTICE ***
This mod is to prevent Z wobble caused by the leadscrew. There are other problems that may cause wobble, which will not be solved by this mod, such as irregular bed heating cycle (which could be solved by PID tuning), irregular hotend temperature (bad insulation or cooling onto the heated block), and banding (when the movement along the smooth rods is hampered, likely by smooth rods not being perfectly parallel).

You can recognize Z wobble caused by the leadscrew, by a constant and uniform wobble, across all prints, and all parts, by the same distance as the pitch of the leadscrew.

Wobble caused by irregular bed heating cycle (PID) is usually not uniform or regular across all models and all parts, because parts (or models) that take less time per layer, will have the wobble waves further apart, and the parts where the layer time is longer, will see the waves closer to eachother. You could also try to print on a cold bed (if you have good adhesion) and eliminate the heating cycle completely. If the problem has gone, you can be sure the heating cycle is to blame. Read up on PID tuning if you think your problem may be caused by the heating cycle of the bed.