Prusa i3 MK2: V2 holder clips for Y-axis' igus drylin RJZM-01-08 bushings

NOTE 2: It is to assume that the MK2s' newer and "more precise" linear shafts will induce more play in combination with the RJZM-01-08! Please ask igus via their website to provide you a free sample of the bushings and try them out before buying the remaining quantities and modifying your printer! Alternatively, use the less expensive but also excellent (if not even better) RJ4JP-01-08 bushings. You can find the corresponding clips for them here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1848700

NOTE: Project was updated on November 3rd, 2016 - Please read the project update notes below!

I upgraded my Prusa i3 MK2 with linear bushings (and shafts) from igus.

To be more specifically, the igus drylin RJZM-01-08 bushings with an aluminum shell.

Note: when you visit the igus website, you will find the product under the label RJUM-01. However, bushings for the 8 mm shaft diameter are called RJZM-01. They both belong to the same product category!http://www.igus.eu/wpck/2292/drylin_r_rjum_01?L=enI also had a typo in the title and the description, missing the "Z" in the name. Sorry for the confusion!

Btw.: The shafts are called AWMP-08 and are made from aluminum. Way lighter than the stainless steel shafts coming with the MK2. The bushings also glide a bit better on them, but are also very good on stainless steel - my second MK2 uses the original shafts.

Back to the summary...

Being not a big fan of the zip tie mounting principle used for the original ball bearings by Prusa Research, I designed this clips that hold the bushings in place and are screwed directly to the metal frame of the heated bed. I used M3 screws with cylindric heads, and there is no interference with the MK42 heated bad.

One big problem of the zip tie system is that the bearings wiggle around and cant against the shafts, leading to unwanted friction, noise, and vibrations. Moreover, the original Prusa i3 MK2 assembly guide says, that the two bearings, which are mounted on the same side of the Y carriage, should be as close as possible to each other. But because the notch on the carriage has rounded ends, the bearings can get askew vertically when pushed against the round endings.

My design holds the bushings centrally inside the notch, which is fine both for the travel distance of the carriage and the end-stop functionality.

Please pay attention that you use the correct clips for the proper carriage side!!!

NOTE: This clips are only suitable for the igus RJZM-01-08 drylin bearings (with aluminum shell) and NOT for the ordinary ball bearings, as the igus bearings are slightly bigger in size.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkKJodZbx5Y

If you like to use the igus drylin RJZM-01-08 bearings also for the X-carriage (aka. the extruder), please take a look at this Thing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1853471

Please also take a look at my other designs, printer parts, and tools.

If you like to support me and my work, please consider following me on:

• Thingiverse
• MartinMajewski.net
• Twitter
• Instagram
• YouTube

Sending a tip over Thingiverse is much appreciated and will provide me with coffee to stay productive.

Please also consider buying your next gear via one of the affiliate links found inside my Thingiverse project pages or directly over the following links.

• Amazon.de
• Amazon.co.uk
• eBay Germany
• GearBest.com