3D model description
Zelda Tears of the Kingdom, inspired Chest with plenty of room in the lid to add LEDs
Designed to be printed in multiple pieces and the assembled to get the different colors of the chest to stand out.
Such a perfect project for any Zelda or RPG loving gamer. I am including two different versions scaled at different sizes with adjusted clearances between the parts. The original size chest has a compartment 55mm tall x 113mm wide x 89mm deep to store whatever you want. The other larger version is scaled up to 170% and has a compartment 94mm tall x 198mm wide x 157mm deep. Plenty of room for all your rubies!!
Assembly
A couple of things to note once you get all the pieces printed out.
As Always, dry fit the pieces together before glueing to ensure you have the correct pieces you want on the design.
Start assembling the lid by adding the “yellow top eye bottom spacer” to the lid first, this will help you align the rest of the pieces. There are multiple versions of this. V2 spacer creates more of an “eye” effect. While V1 will allow more light to pass through. Note the order of the top center eye pieces. There is a clear glass like piece that gets installed before the top decorative piece.
Add the clear plates on the back of the “front topper pieces”, before glueing the topper pieces to the lid. You will not be able to add them later, and they make excellent diffusers for the LED lights.
Leave the lock hanging on the “Front center” piece and glue the “front center keystone” in place capturing the lock. Don’t get glue near the lock when doing this. The lock should be free to swing as you will need the movement to open the chest once everything is assembled.
The different locking pins are a matter of preference on how hard you want the chest to open. They are different lengths and will require more, or less force to pull the eye lock out of the way. Save this part until the end, once everything else is glued together. I recommend pressing the pin through the inside of the chest and out. Use painters’ tape to hold the pin in place for now. Try opening and closing the chest a few times and determine if that is the correct pin for your needs. Then glue this part in place.
The hinge pins in the back should pop into place without the need for glue. Given their print orientation I was afraid they might break if the unfortunate happens, and I wanted to make them easily replaceable. If they seem too hard to pop in place for you, some light sanding on the fat part of the pin should do the trick.
For an assembly video and more info, You can follow me on instagram,
https://www.instagram.com/pla.n.pa/
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I used these lights for both the original size and the 170 scaled up versions.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SDLCTXY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Filaments used in pictures,
Bambu PLA basic blue gray – Main Chest parts
Bambu PLA Gold Metallic – Yellow eye parts
HATCHBOX Matte PLA Light Lavender – Off white top trim
OVERTURE Rock PLA – Light blue parts
ZIRO Glitter PLA Filament – Clear glass diffusers
JAYO Silk Blue – Front eye decor pieces