Double-Barrel Gatling Disc Shooter

Remixed by

Double-Barrel Gatling Disc Shooter

Remixed by
Boost
111
203
39
GIF

Print Profile(2)

All
A1
P1P
P1S
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
Designer
7.9 h
3 plates
4.9(16)

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
5.6 h
3 plates
5.0(6)

Boost
111
203
39
4
361
420
Released

Description

Anything worth doing is worth doing to excess. My 8-shot re-mix of Uhltimate's Disc Shooter, was fun, but why shoot 8 discs when you can shoot 40. Really fast. This double-barrel version of the shooter is crank driven, able to fire up to 8 discs per second. It uses the same basic launch mechanism as Uhltimate's shooter, but each disc is pushed through the launching fork by a rack with intermittent pinion gear. Each side fires two discs per revolution for a total of four disc per turn of the crank.

 

Note that this shooter is designed for PLA, which is stiffer and stronger than PETG or ABS. Do not try to use CF reinforced filaments, though, as they will be too brittle. I would recommend using Tough PLA or some similar variant that can handle a little flexing better than basic PLA, although basic PLA will work, too.

 

CAUTION: The discs launch at a speed in excess of 60mph.  Do not shoot at animals, pets, siblings, or anyone or anything that could be damaged by a 60+mph projectile.

 

And please, do not use this outdoors. You will lose discs. A lot of discs. And we don't need any more plastic pollution.

 

Assembly
1. After printing, you need to remove a couple of tiny built-in supports just underneath the little stub that sticks out of the back of each barrel.

 

 

2. The launching fork is a print-in-place feature at the bottom of each barrel that needs to be freed up after printing. You may be able to wiggle the tips of the fingers to get them to break free, or you can wedge a razor or X-Acto knifeblade in the thin gaps above and below each finger, as shown in the photo above.

 

3. Test fit all of the parts before preceding:

a. Make sure the gears slide on the crankshaft

b. Make sure the plungers (right and left) slide back & forth easily in the slots at the bottom of each barrel

c. Make sure the crankshaft can spin freely in the transverse bore going thru both sides of the shooter

d. Make sure the cap nut threads onto the end of the crankshaft. (If it's tight, you should be able to work it back & forth to loosen it up.)

 

4. Place the gears in the two pockets behind and below the two barrels as shown in the first photo above. You'll be shoving the crankshaft through the housing and through the two gears, but note that the two gears should be off set from each other by 90 degrees, as illustrated in the second photo above. Screw the cap nut onto the end of the crankshaft, and press the knob onto the crankshaft handle.

 

 

5. You will need four very short, thin rubber bands (about 22mm unstretched length, 1 - 1.5mm wide). If you don't happen to have any, you can take a longer rubber band and tie a knot in it and cut off the excess as shown above. You will also need 4 short pieces of 1.75mm filament x 15-20mm long to use as pins in the assembly. Preferably use PETG or ABS as you will be putting a kink in these pieces to keep them in place.

 

6. Loop one end of the rubber band over the small hook on the end of the plunger piece (1st photo above), with the sides of the rubber band laying in the two notches. Start to insert the plunger into the right or left slot (as appropriate) and then hook the other end of the rubber band over the stub at the back of the barrel (2nd photo).

7. Push the plunger all the way forward against the rubber band until the tip sticks out the front side. Place one of the filament pieces through the small hole in the tip to keep the plunger from popping back out. To secure the pin, bend the top and bottom ends slightly forward (1st photo). Trim the pin above and below the plunger tip (2nd photo).

 

8. Repeat the plunger assembly for the other side. Give the crankshaft a test crank – the two plungers should extend and then snap back alternately as you turn.

 

9. Assemble the presser arms as shown in the main photos at the very top, again using short pieces of filament as hinge pins. Bend the ends of the pins and trim them off, as you did for the plungers.

 

10. Loop your last two rubber bands from the hook inside each barrel (at the bottom of the gap in the back) and then over the notch in the back of the presser arm.  You are now ready to load and launch!

Comment & Rating (39)

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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
I made 1, and then I made it BIGGER
The designer has replied
3
Reply
Holy cow that's frightening! Very cool.
0
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This part has broken each time I try to shoot.. 5 shots and it breaks, this is the third one (I’m testing 1 at a time.) Printed on A1 Mini. Could you please make it like slightly longer?
The designer has replied
0
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I printed with Bambu PLA Silk.
0
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Wow, you must have some serious rubber band tension. You only need enough tension to return the plunger back to the start. All the same, I'll update the part with a little more meat at the end.
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Replying to @lobocnc :
I guess I made them too short lol! Thank you tho!
0
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This model is absolutely insane! I've printed your 8 shooter already and this is a massive upgrade in weapons power. The use of the filament for hinges and rubber bands to provide feeding and secure holding of the ammo and firing pins is genius. Not a metal piece of hardware in sight. A++ Congratulations on a superb model. Whats next? a 4 barrel gun 80 shot? *hint* *hint*
The designer has replied
0
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Hey, thanks! Maybe I'll just make a bracket so you can gang multiple units together, limited only by your hand strength and your mental stability:)
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Replying to @lobocnc :
Winding the elastic band around the loading arm really helps too when you pull it back - giving more grip. And to anyone printing - defo use PETG or higher for filament for the retainers on the front firing pins - PLA just isn't strong enough and WILL snap. Also I found bending the PETG in a C or backwards C works much better than bending in an arc top to bottom,
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Replying to @lobocnc :
Please, I beg of you, do the bracket.
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Epic Shootah!!! Printed with Ziro transparent blue PLA Pro (Mechanism/discs) and Voxelab black PLA Pro (Main body).
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In the immortal words of Borat, ""Great Success!" Printed out of PLA+. I opted for short pieces of a paperclip for the hinges...
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
Perfect
0
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
works pretty good. great job. Thx for it. printed body with PLA+, rest in PETG.
0
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The model printed great, but I am having issues with the hand crank and gear connection. There is so much force to get the discs through the spring that the hand crank just slips through the gears. This results in the crank just spinning freely and the gears stay in place. I've tried to print those parts in BL PLA Tough, BL PETG, and BL PETF-CF. And each time the square hole in the gear gets rounded out and the hand crank just starts to free spin. The main body is printed with BL Tough PLA. And I double checked to make sure the small support holding the spring is disconnected so it's not adding excessive force on the disc/crank/gear mechanism. I can manually push the plunger pieces and launch discs. Any recommendations? Thanks.
The designer has replied
0
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Hmm, I suspect maybe it is another printing issue. You could increase the number of perimeters and top and bottom layers of both the gears and the crank, but you may also have an issue with print settings where you aren't getting complete fusing of your layers and perimeter lines. Could be under extrusion or maybe you just need to print hotter and slower.
0
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Replying to @lobocnc :
Awesome Ill give it a shot. I've tried both your profile and the other one there as I have an X1C so I wanted to try the P1S profile first. But I will fiddle with the settings. I'm pretty new to 3D printing, so basically just load the profile and click print. This'll be a good opportunity to learn a bit more about it. Thanks!
0
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需要支撑吗?
The designer has replied
0
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No, no supports are needed.
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
really fun
0
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