LED UFO - The Flying Disc-O

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LED UFO - The Flying Disc-O

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LED UFO
LED UFO
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8 plates
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Description

LED UFO - "The Flying Disc-O"

UFO desk lamp using WS2812B LEDs and an ESP32 controller running WLED

YOU'LL NEED:

  • 1mt WS2812B LED strip
  • ESP32 or other controller*
  • Optional microphone (like MAX4466 or MAX9814) for audioreactive version
  • 5v DC Power supply or USB cable**
  • Electrical wires and soldering equipment

* As long as it fits in the UFO of course. I used an ESP32 with WLED so the instructions will be for that, but you could use for instance an Arduino Nano running FastLED…

** It's not advisable to power the LEDs directly from the board. If using a USB cable strip the end and connect it to the LED strip power “in” wires. Don't forget to set the Max Current in WLED Config/LED Preferences to 500mA if using a USB2.0 cable or 900mA if using USB3.0!

SUGGESTED PRINT SETTINGS:

SAUCER

  • Variable Layer Height (Adaptive, Smooth)
  • Wall loops: 3
  • Sparse infill pattern: Octagram Spiral
  • Sparse infill density: 8%
  • Top surface pattern: Archimedean Spiral
  • Add a Modifier Cylinder, centered, size 130x130x30mm with Top surface pattern: Concentric
  • If a Modifier cannot be added, use Top surface pattern: Concentric for the whole model

TOP & BOTTOM

  • Variable Layer Height (Adaptive, Smooth)
  • Wall loops: 3
  • Sparse infill pattern: Octagram Spiral
  • Sparse infill density: 8%
  • Top surface pattern: Archimedean Spiral

RINGS & DIFFUSERS

  • Use Outer and Inner Brim
  • Wall loops: 3
  • Top surface pattern: Concentric

LEGS

  • Wall loops: 3
  • Ironing: Topmost surface
  • Top surface pattern: Monotonic
  • Top shell layers: 5
  • Bottom shell layers: 5
  • Sparse infill pattern: Honeycomb

POST-PROCESSING:

The rings and diffusers may need some deburring where the brim was, and the grooves for the ring locks in the top/bottom saucer and top/bottom will need some clean-up in (there will be some delamination due to bridging, removing the loose strands will ensure better rotation of the locks and will not have any structural and/or cosmetic impact).

PREPARE THE LED STRIP:

  • Cut the LED strip into one 50cm and two 25cm segments (the 25cm strips should be the ones with “in” and “out” connectors, i.e.: in<-->25cm<-->50cm<-->25cm<-->out).
  • Connect the segments together with 10-15cm wires in this order: 25cm strip with “in” connectors -> 50cm strip -> 25cm strip with “out” connectors (these can be cut off):
LED strip cut in 25-50-25cm segments and wired together
You can use a USB cable to power the strip, but will have less Amps available (dimmer LEDs)

NOTE:
144 LEDs/meter will give the best effect but the connection pads are very small and hard to solder on, and have to be cut very precisely. 100 LEDs/meter will be a bit sparser but easier to work with.

  • Connect the ESP32 to the LED strip (here's a wiring diagram--it's for a LED matrix but the connections are the same)
  • Connect the ESP32 to your PC via USB to install and setup WLED (https://install.wled.me/--it won't work on Firefox use Chrome instead)
    (for more info on WLED: https://kno.wled.ge/)
  • In WLED, create 3 segments, so you can apply different effects to the top, bottom and middle LEDs:
    for 144 LEDs/m strip:
    Segment 0: start LED 0 - stop LED 36 (bottom segment)
    Segment 1: start LED 36 - stop LED 108 (middle segment)
    Segment 2: start LED 108 - stop LED 144 (top segment)
    for 100 LEDs/m strip:
    Segment 0: start LED 0 - stop LED 25
    Segment 1: start LED 25 - stop LED 75
    Segment 2: start LED 75 - stop LED 100
  • If you're using a microphone, set it up in WLED/Config/Usermods with these settings (for MAX4466 or MAX9814 mics).
  • Now it's a good time to check that everything's working as it should :)

ASSEMBLY:

  1. Assemble the top & bottom saucers with the middle ring finding the correct position to line up the grooves. Put in the top & bottom rings so that the holes in the rings for passing the wires line up:
  2. Remove the top saucer for now.
  3. Wrap the middle (50cm) segment around the middle ring:
  4. Put the middle diffuser in and lock the top and bottom saucers around the middle ring:
  5. Wrap the "end" 25cm strip around the top ring:
  6. Put the top diffuser and screw the top in:
  7. Wrap the “start” 25cm strip around the bottom ring:
  8. Connect the ESP32 and the power cable or barreljack to the LEDs (pass the cable through the bottom hole or insert the barreljack in it):
  9. Put the bottom diffuser in place, lock the bottom in, and insert the legs:

My other LED projects:

https://makerworld.com/en/u/3965042544/collections/101475

 


Documentation (2)

Assembly Guide (2)
LED UFO Assembly_77983dc4-403f-4313-9763-d454e5babaaf.png
LED UFO Assembly_2b390176-15a6-44f0-9ed5-12c7c840224e.gif

Comment & Rating (4)

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LED UFO
loved the print. I couldn't get the saucer portion or upper part to print clean so after several attempts i modified the file to print with silk.
The designer has replied
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Hi there! I used silver silk too for the prototyping but couldn't get a clean print either, so I'm curious about what you did :) (the base is a nice addition too!)
(Edited)
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Ooh I see it now! (cutting up the pieces to print in a different orientation) Clever ;)
(Edited)
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Replying to @fractalnoise :
THANKS ! The issue is the main diffuser ring, since the orientation was changed, it altered the inner channel for the ring slightly and the very upper part of the channel where the supports print does not print as clean as if it were in original orientation . so i reduced the size by .5 percent and it seems to work. ill post some updated pictures soon with transparent filament for beam that replaced the landing gear.
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