3D Printer Mini Test by humebeam

humebeam

3D Printer>Test Models

Print Profile(2)

All

P1S

P1P

X1 Carbon

X1E

A1 mini

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill

31 min

1 plate

4.9(30)

0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 25% infill

40 min

1 plate

5.0(4)

Boost

129

376

294

Released

Description

Support

All my designs and mods are free to use and remix. They have a non-commercial license. If you enjoy this or any of my other designs you can send me a small donation using the link below. Thanks :)

https://www.paypal.me/humebeamengineering

About

This is a quick and useful test for 3D printers, it's less than 9 g in total and can be printed quite fast. There are other similar tests available and I've tried a few but they are often quite big and wasteful and take a long time to print while testing things you don't really need to test in order to dial in your printer.

For this test the overhangs test is split into two columns to give each part some time to naturally cool so you can print it a little faster.

The 3D Printer Mini Test has the following features/tests:

Flow Calibration Cube
Overhangs test: 40° to 75° in 5° increments
Bridging test: 10, 20 and 30 mm
Diameter test: 10 mm
Hole test: 8 mm
Fine text test

While most of the tests above are easy to just measure with calipers or by inspecting the print, the flow calibration cube requires measuring with calipers and also some basic math, there's a guide just below. The flow calibration cube part of the test is also available as a super quick standalone test here but I included it in this test as well.

Print settings:

I recommend printing the test with a 0.40 mm nozzle and a 0.40 mm line width, 0.20 mm layer height and 3 perimeters, 3 top layers and 3 bottom layers. Overhangs are usually printed best inside out.

Guide: Flow Calibration Cube, 0.40 mm nozzle

For example, using a 0.40 mm nozzle, set the line width to exactly 0.40 mm in your slicer and print this calibration cube which has 0.80 mm walls. After you have printed it, measure the thickness of all four walls with a caliper and take a note of the widths.

For example, let's say these are the widths of the walls measured:

0.81, 0.82, 0.83, 0.83

Then the formula to calculate the flow rate is:

0.80 / ((0.81 + 0.82 + 0.83 + 0.83) / 4) ≈ 0.97

So, the flowrate or extrusion multiplier is about 97% or 0.97 which you then set in your slicer. Print the cube again to confirm. The measured walls should now be very close to 0.80 mm thick.

What about other nozzle size?

The formula is the same for the other nozzle sizes. Set the line width to be exactly the same as your nozzle size then print that specific flow calibration cube. Then measure all walls with a caliper.

Here's the formula to calculate the flow rate:

(Nozzle size* 2) / ((Wall 1 width + Wall 2 width + Wall 3 width + Wall 4 width) / 4)

Notes:

The method is not completely accurate as each slicer deals with wall widths and flow a little differently. It's a good tool to get a quick indication though.

Comment & Rating (37)

@Gamingkingx

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill

I think the model is great. I mainly printed it for the cube but wanted to see the other tests aswell. The "flaw" I see in this is it all comes down to the calipers and how you use them. I already have a (auto) calibrated profile, and wanted to see if I could get it better. I could not. It only became worse by doing this test cube. The wall thickness was mildly better on the cube after I had dialed in the numbers and printed it again, but now it was massively overextruding the top surface. I now Humebeam make exellenct models so its not the model nor the print profiles fault. Just wanted to give an honest review and to make sure people understand that this test is worth nothing if your calipers arent calibrated or not used correctly (like putting force on the calipers when meassuring etc). I am therefore giving not giving 5 stars as I think it could be made more foolproof. 0.8mm is not easy to meassure reliable. So wether its 0.82 or 0.78 is almost impossible to see with the naked eye. I say that with a calibrated Mitutoyo in front of me. Somehow there needs to be added more scale to the model to make it usefull (atleast the cube).

@user_3105466529

El flujo sería correcto para que las paredes y el objeto aparecieran perfectamente verticales. Después lamentablemente ni siquiera en Bambuslicer hay opción todavía, pero en Orcaslicer sí y está muy bien, tanto para aumentar el flujo en la superficie inferior como para conseguir mayor agarre a la pieza, se puede poner en la calidad/ sección perimetral y superficies. En este mismo puedes configurar el flujo con el que visualmente luce mejor la superficie superior y puedes ajustar el flujo que mejor luce. De esta forma tendrás una pieza con el flujo perfecto en todos los aspectos, tanto vertical como horizontalmente.

@mektanoid

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill

Good test, printed with green PLA, and I'm happy with the result.

@LuxMaker

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill

@richbo

I'd like to try this, but it says it's for ABS. If I load it into Studio and change the filament type, I assume it will change the temperature changes and no longer be a valid test? How should I use this file with other filament types (PLA, PETG, and others). I'm a bit new to this process, so I'd like to understand it to have proper results. Thank you!

The designer has replied

@humebeam

No worries. Just load the file into Bambu Studio and select your filament from the dropdown, slice and print. The default slixer values are normally fine, you need to edit the flow / extrusion rate depending on your brand though but it's not far off so try a print first.