Update: 9 July 22 - Added a new extruder design. It's designed to work with an LGX Lite and Dragon (and maybe Mosquito) hotend. It's designed to be ultra-compact and will enable you to scrape in a 400x350 bed if you wish (I run and recommend a 350x350). The new extruder is designed to be much simpler and easy to maintain. Two screws to remove the extruder. 4 screws to access the hotend. It also has a dedicated flow-through duct to prevent heat creep with plastics like PLA. All belts and the PINDA mount are firmly fixed to the main carriage body, and are unaffected by maintenance work on the extruder, hotend or fans. It's also over 100 grams lighter than the old Titan extruder.

It uses a bunch of M3 hardware, including DIN562 square nuts (Prusa style), a few m2 fittings, and some m3 and m2 brass inserts.

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No build instructions or BOM with this (Though I have included a few jigs and cutting guides). I will include a few quick notes.

• Build Volume - 350x350x425
• Bed - 6mm, Aluminium tooling plate + graviflex magnet + 350x350 Powdercoat PEI flexsheet. No springs. Bolted and shimmed into position.
• Bed Heater - 500W Silicone 330x330 Keenovo
• Electronics - SKR 1.4, 2209s, sensorless, UBL,
• Extruder/Hotend - E3D titan + V6
• Fans - 2x 4010 blowers, 1x 30mm E3D
• Power Supply - Meanwell 750W UHP
• Rails - 3x MGN 9H (450mm long)
• Motors - TronXY on X & Y, Biqu motors with integrated leadscrews on Z, E3D pancake on E.
• Gantry 2020x1mm Carbon Fibre square tube (as per VZBot) 486mm long.
• (Important) - Uses narrow toothed idlers - 8.6mm across. These are used to get the belt spacing close. May be similar to those used in the VZ bot. The two smooth idlers are the X5SA's delrin bearings.

Notes:

• Rails are added to the original X5SA Pro rails using drilling and tapping (and an m4 to m3 helicoil if you want to use one of the existing holes to start things off).
• The install plate for the power supply is the original 3mm build plate, cut down to the right size.

Design criteria:

• Reliable workhorse printer. This thing is as near to fire and forget as they come.
• Compatible with my Prusas (so can share slicer profiles)
• Staged upgrades - You don't need to do everything at once. I went electronics, then an earlier extruder design, then bed, then rails and the new extruder design. It was fully functional in between each upgrade
• Increased build volume (especially in Z - needed it for a critical print).
• 24V system (no AC bed). This is more expensive (big power supply), but necessary where I live. Also, I prefer knowing that there's no high voltage on the moving parts of the printer.
• Quiet. :D
• Easy maintenance. No putting electronics under the printer (Yeah, I'm looking at you Voron :P)
  

A few parts such as the TFT35 screen enclosure, the electronics box, and the frame guides are remixed or loosely derived from other sources. I'll add references as I find them again.