Update 3/5/23: I have added a wider bulb holder for the IOM/US1M style boats. I also added Star 45 boat arms, bulb holder, plates, and clamps.

Update 2/4/22: I added a longer pipe catch piece to allow the stand to go into “narrow” mode. This is great for boat storage as it takes up much less floor space. I have both arms installed, as I still use the original arm as well for tuning and a wide base for outdoors. You may need to trim a bit off the back PVC feet if it is too tippy.

I designed this stand based on David Jensen IOM boat stand design and also out of a bit of frustration that the only other full DF95 stands as of yet on Thingiverse are designed for metric sized EMT or PVC pipe.

This is drawn in INCHES. You need to convert to millimeters if necessary.

I design in metric 99% of the time myself, but for this one all measurements and parts are presented in Imperial units. Further, this design uses 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC plumbing pipe, and Imperial-sized hardware. Your slicer may need you to convert the prints to metric. For Cura slicer, i use the Barbarian plug-in to convert the parts to millimeters for printing.

This stand will fit many boats besides a DF95 and there are several ways to make sizing adjustments by moving parts around and changing the PVC pipe lengths. It fits a DF65 with no problem as is.

Heck, you don't even need to print a single part. You can make the arms and keel board out of wood using paper printouts of the side views of the parts as a template and use stacks of washers as spacers, etc. I have even included David Jennings original design 2D print plans as a PDF showing how to build his stand in wood (see picture and PDF in the files).

Materials/Hardware needed:

3/4" PVC pipe - 13 feet, but allow a few feet more for waste

3/4" PVC tees - 6 pcs.

3/4" PVC caps (feet) - 4 pcs.

3" x 1/4" hex bolts - 2 pcs.

2-1/2" x 1/4" hex bolts - 4 pcs.

1-1/4"" x 1/4" hex bolts - 2 pcs.

1/4" nylon lock nuts - 8 pcs.

1/4" washers - 12 pcs.

1/8" thick x 1/2” width neoprene foam (adhesive backed) - 3 feet

1/4" thick x 1/2” width neoprene foam (adhesive backed) - 1 foot

1" double side Velcro strapping- 2 pcs. 10" long

Flexible medium clear super glue (Mercury adhesives brand on Amazon) and accelerator

Some substitutions:

All non-printed materials should be available at most home improvement stores. I ordered the foam from Amazon. I do not recommend glossy gray household weatherstripping as it can stick to your boat (look for a matte finish on the foam, not glossy), but you may be able to find a good closed cell foam in your local store than I did.

You can substitute some longer length bolts or use split lock washers and regular nuts. The cheaper zinc coated stuff is fine for most of us, no need to get higher strength or stainless hardware (except for saltwater use).

Also, you could just use the 1/8" foam only, you must use it for the bulb cradle, but it is optional for the arms. The 1/4' thickness really helps match the hull shape though (you could use two layers of 1/8").

You can use any adhesive you like, but flexible medium clear super glue is thin enough to wick into the PVC joints without disassembly (this is important later). It is also not brittle like regular super glue. But don't worry, regular super glue is fine.

3/4" PVC pipe cut list (pictured in gallery as well)

Large Frame -

2 x Uprights - 22-1/4"

1 x Cross bar - 18"

1 x Handle - 18-1/4"

2 x Feet - 2"

2 x Tees

2 x Caps (feet)

Small Frame -

2 x Uprights - 13"

2 x Cross bars - 15-1/2"

2 x Feet - 2"

2 x Connector pipes - 3"

4 x Tees

2 x Caps (feet)

***STL and Printed part details*** -All STLs have been uploaded here in their preferred print orientation for FDM printing. There is a usually a reason each one is placed a certain way, such as better accuracy, printability, strength, or cooling fan access. "Speed of part printing" was not considered in choosing orientation.

PipeFitTest - An important print. Use this print to test the fit over your PVC pipe. The preferred fit is somewhat snug. After some light cleanup with a file or sandpaper to remove blips, the fit should be tight enough to where you might have to give it a twist to slide on a part with no looseness. If you have to resize the test part, then you may want to resize other prints that have pipe pass through them the same amount to get a good fit. (don't worry about resizing the spacers, they will probably be fine)

KlbdMidTest & KlbdEndTest - These test prints are for checking the fit of the dovetail used to assemble the keel board pieces. Make sure the KlbdMidTest part is printed in the vertical orientation with supports, just like the large part is. If you need to change the fit, I would suggest only changing the size of the KlbdEndTest part. Once it fits, you can resize the full-size end part STL the same amount, if needed. You may have to do some light cleanup, but the fit of the parts should be snug enough to hand press together with no wobble.

IOMarms STL- These arms are taken directly from the original wood designs and are generally sized for an IOM, but are not for a specific model. They will probably need customizing for your model.

IOMarm.stp - Oh yeah! STEP file, baby! :) Use this arm as the starting point for your own custom arm. You will want to keep the rear features of the arm so you can save the PVC and handle hole locations. Also keep the clearance cut on the bottom to clear the small frame ends. Otherwise, redraw the arm parts however you like.

DF95arms - Print 2. Sized for a DF95 and 1/4" foam padding. These arms will also work for a DF65 and about anything in between.

Short Drill Jig- This is a good test print to make sure the long drill jig print will fit your PVC pipe. You will also use it to drill the holes in the small frame connector PVC pipe parts with this jig. A small brim will help it stick.

Long Drill Jig - Used for drilling the large frame uprights. Definitely use a 1/2" or so brim on this print. It is a tall, narrow print, so it could get knocked loose while printing.

---DRILL JIG NOTE--- The PVC pipe layout picture in the gallery shows the distances from the ends of the PVC pipe for the hole locations. If you have drill press, mill, or other means to drill accurate holes, you can use those measurements and do not need to print the drill jigs!

Pipe catch - This part has a small button on the thin clip end to help the first layers stick to the bed. You can trim this off with a knife in a few seconds after printing. The helper disc is a separate part within the STL, so it can be deleted if you like, but it really helps! I have added a longer version as well that allows the stand to have a smaller footprint for indoor use. I have both installed on my stand.

Cap- Print 6. These plug the upper ends of the PVC uprights and the handle. You may have to tweak the size of these or file a little off the fitting rings. This should be a snug fit by hand.

Spacers - Print 16. Placing a couple of these back to back makes the middle spacer for the large and small frame connector bolt. Don't glue them together, they rotate against each other.

Pipe clip - Print as needed. This is just a handy 3/4" pipe clip if you want to keep loose-fitting parts in place or use to build other clip-on parts of your own design.

Tx Clip - Print 2. This set of clips are designed for a FlySky I6 transmitter. You have to insert the Tx flat and allow it to drop down. This snug fit prevent the Tx from being bounced out. I don't know if they will fit a different Tx, but you can modify them as needed.

Keel Board middle - Print vertically as presented. I did not need a brim, but it may help if you have bed adhesion issues. This part needs very simple supports from the bed only. They go under the 2 flat sections on either side of the dovetail. It is designed for the DF95 bulb and 1/8" foam. Make sure you have used the test print!

Keel board ends - Print 2.

Knob - Print 2. Used on the keel board ends. These fit over the hex bolt head.

Clamp - Print 2. These are a slip fit for easy adjustment, but can clamp firmly once you have the position you like. These parts have a recess to hold the Nylock nut.

IOM Boat Stand pdf - This is the David Jennings original design which I used as the basis for this project

Here are links to other metric sized stands based on David Jennings design. I did not use or remix any of their parts. I will surely credit them for NOT working for me and thus inspiring me to design something that did fit my needs. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3391502 for DF95/DF65 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2139038 for DF65/RG-65 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3250906 for IOM

Also, many thanks to David Jennings himself for sparking the fires of so much creation based on his work.

Print Settings

Printer:

Ender 5+

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

.5mm

Infill:

15-25%

Filament: eSun PETG

Notes:

I printed these parts using a 0.80mm nozzle and 0.5mm layer heights. You do not have to do this, but it makes very strong parts and quick printing. You don't even notice the layers.

This is a large functional assembly, not a gaming miniature!

There is no need to print this at anything smaller than 0.40mm nozzle with 0.28mm layers

Whatever your settings for your particular nozzle, just think strong. 15-25% infill, with thick walls, tops and bottoms (1/8" or 2+ mm). Some of the small parts may have so many walls, they are near solid - that's great!

The only part that needs support are the overhangs near the base of the middle keel board STL and the matching dovetail test piece.

I used PETG because it is tough as nails and heat tolerant. I also did not choose very dark colors to minimize any solar heating effect. The pictured stand uses eSun transparent yellow and transparent gray filament.

Post-Printing

Assembly Instructions

1. Cut the PVC pipe to length. After cutting, you can use some acetone and fine sandpaper to take off any markings and clean up the pipe. Make sure you are making square cuts at the pipe ends. Some handheld cutters make a slightly angled cut, so be careful. Using the PVC tees and PVC caps, dry fit the large and small frame assemblies. Make sure they are flat and measure in many locations to make they are squared up, top to bottom, and side to side. DO NOT GLUE ANYTHING !!!!
2. Drill holes. Using a 1/4" bit and the drill jigs, make the 3 bolt holes in the large frame uprights and single bolt holes in the small frame connector pipe. The pipe layout in the picture gallery shows the hole locations as well if you do not need the jig. Even with the jig, take care to make sure to keep your drill straight. Even after drilling through the first side of the pipe the drill can get off center starting through the other side of the PVC. The jig is a helper, not a guarantee of perfection! Make a couple of test holes is some scrap to get some practice.
3. Using the printed arms, catches, spacers, hex bolts, washer, lock nuts, and PVC, test assemble the complete frame. Again, measure for squareness. Sight along the assembly using the visual reference of the PVC pipes to make sure your frames are not twisted. Again, DO NOT GLUE ANYTHING !!!
4. Fit the keel board together. These parts should fit snugly and flat. I placed the assembled parts on a piece of wax paper on a flat surface and then flooded the dovetail joint with flexible super glue. I let it sink into the joint and wiped off most of the excess, then hit it with accelerator. Once cured, you can then flip it over and apply more glue as needed. Use plenty, just try not to make a mess of it.
5. Slide the keel board clamps onto the large frame legs up to about where you think the boat bulb will be and loosely attach the keel board with the hardware and knobs. You do not need any washers here. You may want to pre-thread the lock nuts onto a bolt beforehand using a wrench. This will pre-cut the nylon and make it easier to turn the plastic knobs for final assembly. Also, these clamps do not needed to be crushed tight. Hand tighten them with just enough tension to hold the keel board in place.
6. Insert the printed caps and and add accessory prints, such as the Tx hooks. I did not use any glue for these parts.
7. Add the 1/4" foam to the arms and 1/8" foam to the keel board center. Then weave the Velcro into the front bottom slot, then out the lower middle slot, into the upper middle slot and out the upper slot. The weaving keeps the Velcro in place when the boat is off the stand.
8. You should now have an unglued, assembled stand. With care, you can manipulate the frame to the various positions and make sure it moves freely. Making sure the PVC joints are all snug, you can even try to gently place the boat on the stand. With the boat on the frame, you can also adjust the keel board height so that it applies just enough upward pressure on the bulb to ease the weight off the hull. You can also trim the Velcro as needed.
9. Is your frame assembled, fitting your boat, measuring square and flat, with all your parts installed? NOW. you can glue the PVC parts together. You should not disassemble the stand to glue it up. Trying to rush reassembly with glue curing or trying to align parts when they are not inserted into the full assembly is a recipe for disaster. I did not disassemble the frame and flooded the joints with flexible super glue cured with accelerator. Gravity and the mechanical joints will keep the whole stand together, glue is just a helper holding the parts in alignment.

-As a note you may not want to glue the top joint of the PVC tees on the large frame. This will allow you to remove the foot and crossbar assembly if you ever need to slide the clamps off the PVC frame. Make sure the other joints on the Tees are glued though so the frame stays in proper alignment.

Category: R/C Vehicles