About

Disclaimer: While this absolutely can be used without, I designed this to pair with Humebeam's excellent Hydra mod.

As the saying goes, necessity breeds invention. Even with the Hydra, I kept having issues with Atomic filament spools rubbing on the lid. This led to having to constantly fiddle with the lid or the rear rollers trying to get it JUST right so that it would print without getting stuck. I finally got fed up and just designed a replacement lid.

This lid does away with the curved design (mostly because I couldn't find a vendor to make custom bent acrylic panels on the cheap) and reclaims the front ~2cm. This helps remove the reliance on keeping rear rollers in a variety of sizes, you can mostly just move them to the different positions and call it a day.

The good:

• You can use wider diameter spools without having the spool or the filament touch the lid.
• Maintains humidity (within reason)
• You can see the filament
• Printable on X1 and P1 printers (apart from windows)

The bad:

• You need to purchase (or cut yourself) the acrylic panels
• Less airtight than OEM lid (but still workable with desiccant)
• I'm not terribly happy with the hinges in their current design (to be updated)

Regarding humidity - I have been using the current form of the lid for several weeks and both of my AMS units have stayed at 10%. Ambient humidity in my home is in the low 40's so I can't speak for its performance in very humid environments. The panels do a decent job sealing without needing gaskets, and I've added some flares to help plug up any gaps but I do not claim that this is airtight.

BOM

• 36x 4mm base taper M3 heat set inserts
  • I personally have been using these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08T7M2H4S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• 34x M3x8 screws for windows
  • Recommend socket head
• 2x M3x10 screws for rear center
• 2x M3x12 screws for hinges
• Custom cut acrylic windows (dxf files attached)
  • I can vouch for SendCutSend as a provider in the US, their cuts fit perfectly and prices are reasonable. I recommend getting the light grey colored acrylic in .118" thickness. It's a good match for the OEM tinted plastic. I tried the dark grey and it looks great but you can't see through it very well.
  • SendCutSend saved cart: https://cart.sendcutsend.com/x9tl5ajji34s

Print Settings

IMPORTANT: Make sure your prints are dialed in enough to not have warping. The first layer for the main parts are where the side windows mount to. If these are not straight the windows will not sit flush and you'll have air gaps.

I generally recommend printing in PETG, but if you're not printing high temp filament you can probably get away with PLA.

• 2mm layer height
• 3 wall loops
• Gyroid infill at 15% should be fine
• Brim only advised for the hinge mounts

Assembly

1. Remove any spools from the AMS and disconnect the cable and ptfe tube from the printer
2. Follow Step 5 from the Replacing AMS Bottom Cover to remove the lid
3. Slide the hinges off either either side of the lid, then reinstall onto the bottom half of the AMS
4. Insert heat-set inserts into all holes on the left, right, front, and top sides
   1. Take care to not put too much pressure on the thinner parts while inserting
   2. Note the hinge mounts, and rear center lip do not receive inserts (see attached pictures. Do not insert into holes marked with a red X)
5. Combine both halves of the lid
   1. This should be a pretty tight fit at the rear
   2. Note that the front side has locating tabs (see attached pictures)
6. Install the windows with M3x8 screws
   1. I recommend starting with the front and top windows so the side windows don't get scratched up. Or do them in any order you want, I'm not your dad.
7. Install M3x12 screws into the left and right hinge mounts
   1. The threaded parts should point outwards towards the side windows
8. Install M3x10 screws into the rear center, including the rear center hinge
9. Place the lid on top of your AMS
   1. This should fit on top of the gasket, inside the lip of the plastic housing
   2. Tolerances are pretty close here, if it doesn't drop in right away verify that it's not crooked slightly
   3. If it's too wide you can loosen the screws on the front and top windows and press both sides in a bit before tightening them back up
10. Slide the assembled hinge mounts into the AMS hinges from step 3, roll them forward into the locating slots on the back of the lid, then secure with two M3x8 screws
11. Reconnect the AMS