IMPORTANT: If you use a P1S/P1P and experience issues printing the top of the head, please configure the print profile speed to 80mm for the outer wall, and give the model 3 walls. (thank you user PavorMaker who helped figure this fix out.)
If you use the Textured PEI plate, a brim is necessary regardless of what machine you use. A brim is not needed if you use the Cool Plate in an enclosed machine, that has a stable temperature.

This Kohaku model comes in two sizes; short, and long. The short dragon has 14 joints down its body, the long has 25 joints.

The whiskers are just strips of filament that I have glued into the holes on the side of the muzzle, a filament size of 1.75mm fits in the holes nicely.

Due to the limit of 4 colours, the pupils are not black. A dab of acrylic or permanent marker works fine.

I printed mine without a brim; providing your hotbed is clean/freshly glued, you shouldn't need a brim either.

Supports are not needed, so don't print it with any or you'll end up wasting filament and risk damaging the joints when removing supports. If you are having issues with the toes/claws not printing well, do the following:

1. Turn supports ON.
2. Set the type to “normal(manual)”.
3. Set style to “snug”.
4. Tick the box for “touching buildplate only”.
5. Paint the base of the palm/fingers/toes in support paint mode.

This way only supports are generated on the hands, and not anywhere else.

You can add another two segments to the LONG version tail and neck to make it longer, but due to limited space on the hotbed, I wouldn't make the model itself larger. I wouldn't print it any smaller as the joints will likely lose strength.

Pre-painted/coloured versions are also available!

The joints can move in almost all directions. The arms and legs do not move.

You can see the range of movement in this video:

This file covers PERSONAL use. If you want to sell prints of this model, please subscribe to my Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards