Bambu Lab P1 / X1 Series Dual Aux Fan (4/10/2023)

Designed a second aux fan for Bambu Lab printers. I have another modular version of this that also uses an optional bentobox for those printing enclosed https://makerworld.com/en/models/23658 .

Big thanks to @Spezo_501511 for helping with X1 / X1C testing.

Contents

• Updates
• Files
• Additional Parts
• Printing Information
• Assembly
• Wiring Options

The X1 and P1 Version are different! This is to account for the Lidar clearance.

This will only fit on the right side of the printer! You cannot mirror to work on the left, where the original fan goes, as the frame rails are are different heights ( among other things).

Update 7/28/23

1. Finished the design for the upgraded fan ducts that provide airflow to the back, middle, and front of the build plate
   1. https://makerworld.com/en/models/23661
   2. Model only works with the modular version https://makerworld.com/en/models/23658

Update 7/25/23

Added multiple wiring instructions.

1. Using fan_1 port to power the aux. Control via Bambu Studios
2. Using fan_1 port to power the aux. Control via Gcode.
3. Keeping the fan_1 port open for the chamber temp fan, wiring 2nd aux to the 1st aux fan. Control via normal way.

Files

Main Files

1. P1 Fan Top 1A
2. Fan Casing 2A
3. Fan Back Plate 3A
4. Fan Stand 4A
5. X1 Fan Top 5A

Print File

1. P1 Print File
2. X1 Print File

Additional Parts

1. Aux fan
   1. https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/auxiliary-part-cooling-fan-x1-series-and-p1p
2. Qty 2 : M3*6

Print Orientation

Print Settings

DO NOT USE PLA, IT WILL BREAK. Please use PETG, ASA, PLA+ , etc.

I used Polylite Pro PLA+

Set your K calibration and adjust setting based on your filament

Quality

• Please see build plate file.

Support

• Please see build plate file.

Other

• Bed adhesion - use brim if you're having adhesion issues, its already configured in the print file so please go over the settings first.

* To remove the support from the fan top , I just used pliers and pulled the support out which was pretty easy. Sometimes some of the support stuck but it was easy to clean up with a small knife. The supports on the 2 larger tabs on the fan casing should looked at after the supports are removed, just make sure it's clean on the bottom side since these tabs are what hold it tight against the fan stand. Lastly, be careful when removing the supports on the front of the fan casing, loosen and remove the main vertical support then it's easier to remove the supports around the 4 rectangular tabs.

Assembly

• Remove the fan from casing, remove the sticker over the wiring and redirect the wiring as shown below. Don't put the fan in the printed case yet.

• Attached the fan top to the casing, make sure are for tabs are locked in and the front left and back walls are flush between the top and case.

• Place the fan into the new casing, make sure the fan is centered by using the alignment poles

• Attach the back plate using re-using the 3 screws that originally held the fan into the casing. Slide the back plate on up/left, making sure to keep the wiring in the channel and then slotting the top two little tabs on the back plate into the spots on the back of the fan top. Tighten the screws 90% of the way making sure the backplate can still move a little.

• Slide the upper assembly onto the fan stand, same way as the OEM aux fan and use the 2 longer screws that come with the aux fan to tighten the case against the stand. Then make sure the back plate is squared up and tighten the 3 screws the remainder of the way.

MOVE THE BUILD PLATE ALL THE WAY DOWN FOR THE NEXT STEPS

• The stand connects to the floor via lining up the L shape cutout with the L shape extrusion on the floor. There is also a caution sticker and under that sticker is a hole that we will use to screw the stand to the floor. I re-used 1 of the 2 shorter screws that came with the aux fan.

• Next tilt the fan into place. The re protrusions on the fan top should “almost” line up with the 2 holes in the frame. They are offset a little. Then use 2 M3*6 screws to hold it in place.

Wiring Options (Option 3 is the best and requires no modification to existing aux fan wires)

Option 1- Using the fan_1 port ( where the chamber fan would connect) and Bambu Studios to control the fan.

• Follow the instructions to remove the back plate to plug in the aux fan. The fan plugs into Fan 1 while the original aux fan is plugged into Fan2

• Cable manage the wiring

Bambu Studio

So I know you can change the Gcode to make it work with the fan which is “M106 P3 S0 ; turn off chamber fan” (option 2 below) but you can also change the config to make it show up in Bambu Studio.

• For me on PC it's under C:\Program Files\Bambu Studio\resources . Open the Config file with an application like Notepad++ https://notepad-plus-plus.org/downloads/v8.5.1/
• Under "FUNC_CHAMBER_FAN" : false," change it to true ""FUNC_CHAMBER_FAN" : true," . Notepadd++ will ask to change this under administrator, click yes and save the file.

{ "printers": [ { "display_name": "Bambu Lab P1P", "func": { "FUNC_CHAMBER_TEMP": true, "FUNC_FIRSTLAYER_INSPECT": false, "FUNC_AI_MONITORING": false, "FUNC_BUILDPLATE_MARKER_DETECT": false, "FUNC_FLOW_CALIBRATION": false, "FUNC_MONITORING": false, "FUNC_MEDIA_FILE": false, "FUNC_REMOTE_TUNNEL": false, "FUNC_LOCAL_TUNNEL": true, "FUNC_VIRTUAL_CAMERA" : false, "FUNC_PRINT_WITHOUT_SD": false, "FUNC_ALTER_RESOLUTION": false, "FUNC_CHAMBER_FAN" : false, "FUNC_EXTRUSION_CALI": true, "FUNC_PRINT_ALL" : false

• Re-open Studio and on the device screen you'll now see the chamber fan which is what we'll use to control the 2nd aux fan.

Option 2 - Using the fan_1 port ( where the chamber fan would connect) and Gcode to control the fan.

• Same wiring as above but instead of changing the config file for Studios we change the gcode. This was suggested from @bjws_297864:
  • Remove the filament start code that modifies the chamber fan and added this to the end of the printer start gcode:
    
    ;========turn on chamber fan to filter VOCs =============
    {if filament_type[initial_extruder]=="ABS" || filament_type[initial_extruder]=="ASA" }
    M106 P3 S50 ; set chamber fan to 20%
    {endif}

Option 3 - Wire the 2nd aux fan to the original aux fan. This way both fans are controlled as one without needing to change any code. This is how I have mine set up.

What's required:

1. JST MX 1.25 Connectors
   1. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B3MSD154/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2. Minimal soldering skill

Wiring Diagram

Bambu wiring = Dark grey (GND) , Black (+), light grey ( tach) , white (pwm)

As pointed out by @MozzieT_1023044 if you're wiring the 2nd fan into the existing one, it's probably best to only connect the PWM wire and not the Tach wire. The speed readout may get a bit confused as to the actual fan speed if the two fans pulses don't align for whatever reason. I still have my 2nd tach wire connected without any issues but I do plan on disconnecting it next time I take my panel off. -9/8/2023

• Behind the power panel, there are two screws under -V and +V that aren't being used. I just wrapped the wire around these screws and tightened down. You should use a terminal ring but I didn't.

And finally how it all looks wired up:

That's all!

If you like my designs and want to say thanks, you can buy me a coffee and help fund the filaments I need for prototyping. A donation of any amount to Buy Me a Coffee or PayPal would be greatly appreciated!

As always, given different printing environments, filaments, etc., prints may not work perfectly for everyone. If you are having issues please message or comment and I will try my best to resolve the issue.