SUNBU LAB AMS LITE 1.0

SUNBU LAB AMS LITE 1.0

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Print Profile(1)

All
X1 Carbon
P1S
P1P
X1
X1E
A1

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill (Outside brim) (Normal supports (eg forced))
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill (Outside brim) (Normal supports (eg forced))
Designer
33.9 h
14 plates
5.0(1)

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Released

Description

The idea to design and build this has been with me for a while, and I finally got the time to do it….

 

What is it?

 

This is a fusion of the Bambu Lab AMS Lite and the Filadryer S4 by Sunlu. First and foremost it will allow you to keep your filament dry and also print directly from the Filadryer but with AMS Lite capabilities. Second, you will clear up space on your desk (if you previously had the AMS Lite standing on it). You will also get a tray on top to store some stuff.

 

 

Lets get to it!

 

My list of prerequisites were:

  • All functionality of the AMS lite should persist.
  • All functionality of the Sunlu S4 filament dryer should persist.
  • No modification or damage to the original parts of both the AMS Lite or Sunlu S4 allowed. (reassembly must be possible)
  • No or at least minimal supports required when printing.
  • Only printed parts allowed, no additional parts (like screws, bearings, etc) should be required.
  • As much as possible of the design to be "mirrored".

All plates and parts needed are stored in the 3mf-file. I used a X1C to print the parts. I opted for ABS since it usually gives great durability and finish. It will most likely work with PETG or even PLA, but I have not tried that, and PLA might be insufficient in drying temperatures.

 

For a smooth journey I would start like this and print:

  • BASE A
  • BASE B (Exactly the same as BASE A)
  • CLIPS & LOCKS & PLUGS

While printing, disassemble the AMS Lite. There are guides for this in the wiki:

AMS Maintenance and How To guides | Bambu Lab Wiki

 

To remove the feeder units, unscrew the four screws that are attached to the main body and unplug the to ribbon cables from the mainboard. The feeder units does not require any further disassembly.

When you have removed the motherboard (Details in the wiki), carefully remove the NFC sensor windings from the main body. Easiest way to do this was to use a screwdriver and bend carefully at each place where there is silicone, It is four places in total for each sensor.

 

 

That's all AMS parts you need to disassemble. You should now have this in front of you

  • First stage feeder kit
  • 1x Motherboard
  • 4x NFC Sensor windings
  • 4x rolls

Now turn to the Sunlu S4. The top covers needs to be removed. I was puzzled of how to to this but found out that if one cover is opened and then carefully bent, it would snap out from the chassis.

 

When you have finished printing the first three plates print the following plates:

  • LEG A
  • LEG B
  • YELLOW SPOOL HOLDER (x2 on the plate)
  • GREEN SPOOL HOLDER (x2 on the plate)
  • LEG C
  • LEG D

(All LEG parts are exactly the same)

 

Assembly of the SUNBU AMS LITE main body

 

BODY A and BODY B will jack in to each other. Just pair the edge at an angle and twist them together:

--→

 

 

Now find the following parts from the CLIPS & LOCKS & PLUGS plate:

 

Push the three H-shaped slips into the main body. You can use the rear side of a screwdriver for this. Or any other tool you like. Or just toyr thumb. Note that the clips have a chamfer on one side. That side is the one that goes into the model.

 

Now turn to the two small 6x10mm poles. Drop one sideways into each of the slots on the top side of the main body. Use a screwdriver and push the pole into the next part of the main body. Press it all the way in.

 

Now take the two "lid-blocks" and push down one in each hole

 

If you have finished printing the next 4-6 plates you can start assembly of the legs.

While doing so print the following plates:

  • FIRST FEEDER STAGE MOUNT & MB HOUSING
  • SENSOR COVER A
  • SENSOR COVER B (Same as SENSOR COVER A)
  • HANDLE A
  • HANDLE B (Same as HANDLE A)

this should conclude the printing of parts.

 

Assembly of the legs

 

From the CLIPS & LOCKS & PLUGS plate find the 4 squared lock-plates

Take one LEG-part and slide it into the lock plates that you will have to put in from below. The easiest way to fit the legs is to start with one lock plate and just get it to attach enough to hold it in place. After that do the same with the second lock plate and finally slide the legs as much as it allows for. (Never mind the yellow cross below the leg, I did assembly in a different order that was not optimal)

 

Grab the YELLOW SPOOL HOLDER and push it through the first leg half

 

IMPORTANT!

The spool holders must be inserted to the correct leg half, otherwise to rollers will not be oriented correctly. If installation is done as in the pictures you will be fine!

 

Now, push the GREEN SPOOL HOLDER through the second leg part

 

Take the second leg half and push it to align with the first leg half.

 

From the CLIPS & LOCKS & PLUGS plate find the 28 clips (4mm thick)

From this point there is no turning back, you will not be able to disassemble the legs after this without drilling all clips so:

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE ORIENTATION OF THE YELLOW AND GREEN SPOOL HOLDERS CORRECT!

 

If you have the main body laying upside down in front of you, there should always be a YELLOW SPOOL HOLDER on the top right corner.

 

Put clips into the leg by pushing it into the holes. The clips have a chamfer on one side that goes into the leg.

 

When you have assembled one leg do the same procedure with the other leg.

Note the orientation for GREEN and YELLOW SPOOL HOLDER!!!!!! (See complete assembly 3 pics below)

 

Install the NFS sensor windings for each roll and pull the wire through the hole in the base plate.

 

Install the sensor covers by pushing them down into the shaft

 

 

The result should look something like this:

 

Now, mount the original spool holders, It might take some convincing, but they will fit eventually…

 

Add some rolls of filament, or don't. It's up to you, it was my way of getting the assembly to be able to turn over and rest horizontally while assembling the rest. A different option is to place it in the Sunly S4…

 

Attaching and connecting the motherboard

 

There is a surplus of mounting points for the motherboard due to the mirrored design of the parts. Some of the surplus mounting points needs to be cut away (use a sharp plier). You will realize which ones that needs to be kept. The motherboard is mounted upside down.

 

Note the arrangement of the ribbon wires. (B/W to the left), And also the numbering I did on the motherboard. It is the corresponding sensor wire for the NFC sensors.

 

We have now come to the point of mounting the housing for the motherboard. Locate the parts printed on the FIRST FEEDER STAGE MOUNT & MB HOUSING plate and take one of the MB Housing parts, and slide it onto the rails of main body. Make sure to keep the ribbon wires out of the way,

Do the same thing with the second mb housing part

 

Slide the two AMS Interface units into place

 

Screw the AMS first stage feeder assembly into place. make sure that the numbering of the feeders cohere to the numbering on the mainboard.

 

Assembling the handle

 

Locate the grip lock and grip interface from the CLIPS & LOCKS & PLUGS plate:

 

I don't have pictures of this, but it is more or less the same procedure as when mounting the legs.

Locate HANDLE A & HANDLE B. They look the same (and are identical in design)

  • Attach one of the handles to both grip interfaces by sliding them
  • Attach the other handle to both grip interfaces by sliding them
  • Locate the grip clips (x18) from the CLIPS & LOCKS & PLUGS plate
  • Push all 18 clips into the handle

Now you have a grip assembly in your hand that should enable you to:

 

Push each of the grip interfaces through the holes in the main body and use the grip lock (the bar) on the other side to keep them in place. I used a water plump pliers kind of tool to push the bar into the right place. As explained before, I initially did this assembly in a different order, hence no legs are present in this pic:

 

The result should look something like this (But with more clips installed):

 

So, final touch. And yes, I know, it contradicts my prerequisites since it adds additional parts, but it is optional;

  • For each first stage feeder, put a small PTFE tube trough the main body. It will simplify the loading of filament…

There are some models on the CLIPS & LOCKS & PLUGS plate that you can use to plug unused holes in the base.

 

Final Notes

 

If you are to print TPU it is (as you most likely know) not supported by the AMS Lite. In that case remove one of the original rollers from the Sunbu AMS Lite and feed the TPU through one of the standard filament holes of the filadryer S4. The roll will then rest on the original rollers of the S4.

 

I think I covered all now. If not, let me know….

Comment & Rating (39)

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This is awesome. Now need something for the s4 and normal x1 ams
The designer has replied
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yep.. on it, but it’s a lot more challenging 🙈
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Replying to @Mr__X_ :
I been trying to wrap my head on how to design it myself need to somehow get all the ams electronics in the S4 i would think make like a riser to fit everything below then maybe an extension to the lid
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Replying to @DAVID.04DC5 :
Well.. I want to keep all AMS electronics OUT of the S4 due to the heat.... I'm close to a design that works, but that is after failing miserably on a LOT of other designs...
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First off, well done Sir! This is a well designed project, especially for gen 1 release. I am still printing the final two legs and 1 more handle piece. Everything has printed perfectly and I am printing on a P1S and an A1 at the same time. Both machines print out great. Recommendation for Rev2, taper the dovetail pieces that the legs mount to to facilitate getting them started. I used a dremel and it worked well. I haven't gotten to the handles yet, but probably going to be the same deal. Thank you! Now I just need my S4 to hurry and get here.
The designer has replied
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Hi! Thank you. I’m having trouble understanding your issue, I really didn’t have to dremel anything for the parts to fit, can you take a picture? 🙃 EDIT//: I think I understand what you mean. Maybe just round off the corners a bit for easier assembly. What kind of filament are you using? PETG? PETG usually, in my experience, gives less dimensional accuracy than ABS (or PLA for that matter). // EDIT
(Edited)
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Replying to @Mr__X_ :
You got the idea. I am printing in PLA, as that is all I print on the A1 so the dryer will never be real hot. I just rounded all the corners on the dovetail pieces and sanded a hair off a few to make it easier to assemble. maybe pull a thousandth or 2 off of each friction surface. if it's a little loose, that is fine, and nothing a drop of glue wouldn't solve.
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I've been searching for a solution like this and can't wait to get my hands on a S4 so that I can try it. I really enjoy the effort that you put in to make sure that both units retain original functionality. I am going to miss the free space from having my AMS lite mounted on the top rail but would gladly give that up for a solid drying solution. My only question is how difficult is it to change spools? Do you have a hook up higher that you hang the handle from so that you can use both hands to change the spools? Apologies if that has already be answered elsewhere.
The designer has replied
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Hi, thank you for your praise and question. As long as you have space on your desk to lift out the AMS and place it there, its not =that= cumbersome. This do require that you have spools on all or at least three spoolholders. It is also possible to lay the AMS down on the side, alas the desk-facing spools may come off if you don't support them while laying/raising the AMS. A wall hook would most likely be the best way to address the issue. It was actually my initial idea, but i've settled for placing it on the desk for now. Still I might design one since there's obviously some interest for that solution. ;)
(Edited)
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I don't have an A1 or an AMS lite, but this print makes me want one just so I could print, assemble and affix to a sunlu box. Awesome work!!!!
The designer has replied
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Thank you very much for your kind words. And, yes, it is very satisfying to assemble 😅👍
(Edited)
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impressive
The designer has replied
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🙌
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This is the best thing ive seen pop up on maker world for awhile. im downloading just to get you the credit even if i don't print it. Tho if i ever acquire a 2nd s4 and a 2nd lite I will be doing this.
The designer has replied
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Thank you 🤗
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any thoughts on trying to add a decent seal so this could be used as a dryer and a dry box. I think that's my biggest issue with the S4. with this huge of a modification I was wondering if you had put any thoughts into that
The designer has replied
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Short answer; no Long answer…: My understanding is the S4 can do what you ask for as is.. You can set the S4 to maintain an allowed humidity automatically. I have not tried that functionality though since I live off grid and need to keep track of my power consumption. If this functionality is not an option, the lid can easily be sealed with a soft gasket (window gasket or similar) between the base and the chamber and any remaining holes (alas there are not many and I doubt the effect of doing so) can be siliconed upon assembly. I also believe the sunbu seals better than the original lid since the base is much thicker. Ragards
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Boosted
it’s amazing, thank you for creating and sharing it, it’s worth a boost from me!❤️
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great option and I’m definitely considering do this. having the ability to dry my filament without so much hassle would be great.
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Could you make a version without the handle? It takes up quite a bit of space!
The designer has replied
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You can assemble it without the handle. Just mount the plugs in the holes. 🙃
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