Low profile AMS riser with LED and glass lid riser for X1C/P1P/P1S. by darren.meier

darren.meier

3D Printer>3D Printer Accessories

Print Profile(1)

All

P1S

P1P

X1 Carbon

X1E

0.6mm nozzle, 0.3mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Designer

13.8 h

4 plates

4.7(19)

Boost

176

332

269

Released

Description

I've wanted a new riser for a bit, especially since I moved from my A1 units and one P1S to multiple P1S units. There are definitely some good ones here on MakerWorld, and I've printed a couple of them! But none of them quite did it for me. A lot of them are reeeeeaaally tall, and I didn't want that. Or they're unnecessarily decorative for my tastes. Or they have storage built in that I don't plan to use. Or they use the underpowered side panel light connector that isn't specced for adequate amperage. Or they didn't have a slot to lift away the glass for PLA ventilation. So I set out to make my own! This one is easy to print in PETG (I printed a PLA-CF test for a part of this model and OMG IT LOOKS SO GOOD but it's just not the right material given the heat rising off the print chamber, so I printed this one in the matte PETG from Jarees). Would recommend using PETG or better. Low profile (total height to the AMS is just under 40mm) and there is a slot to elevate the glass lid for printing PLA. Non-angled curved face along the bottom edge of the riser allows for LED strip lighting, easily routes to the front panel USB-A connector behind the screen (using this is better than the connector the built-in LED uses, as that connector is specced for 0.5A and the front panel USB-A is specced for 1.5A so you won't kill your printer over time). Thanks for checking out my riser, hope you'll give it a shot and I hope you all have a great day!

Comment & Rating (48)

@jakejcarter

Print Profile

0.6mm nozzle, 0.3mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Worked out great.

The designer has replied

@darren.meier

That looks great, friend! Thanks for sharing your make, I was getting anxious to see someone else's build!

@montazuma

Boosted

Curious did you go with a battery powered LED strip for your X1C?

@jakejcarter

Replying to @montazuma :

I used a wall powered led strip. The benefit of that is I get lighting while the printer is powered off for maintenance.

(Edited)

@grimgprr

Boosted

Thank you so much it came out fantastic. And the glass top slides in like butter. Perfect size for my small shop closet. lol. I’m making a donation for the print.

The designer has replied

@darren.meier

Thank you so much for the support, friend! Your print looks fantastic, that's a sharp little shop you've got set up there!

@ByteMe420

Print Profile

0.6mm nozzle, 0.3mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Thanks for sharing your design! it’s exactly what I was looking for - not too much, not too little, just perfect for the job. One of my first “big” prints in this new hobby and it came out great! Resliced to print PETG with .4mm nozzle, took a while and had a few stringers on the back corners but a heat gun cleaned that up. Used the led strip you suggested and works perfectly! PS - make sure you print a PTFE tube removal tool if your AMS is already installed, it makes life a lot easier!

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@ByteMe420

Wanted to add how much of an improvement the led lighting makes - you can see everything inside the printer so much better and even the camera view is significantly improved! I may put a small strip of thin felt tape on the front edge to improve the glass seal. It doesn’t really need it (there is a tiny gap under the handle that is probably insignificant) but might as well dress it up even more. I do really like the ability to raise the glass top for cooling. Thanks again!

(Edited)

@darren.meier

Thanks so much for the kind words, friend! Your build looks awesome. I considered adding a tiny bit of felt to the glass-riser interface as well, but honestly I only ever see it if I'm looking down at the riser from above so I just chose to leave it be. I'm so glad it works out for you!

@Cosmin

Hey! Nice riser, I like the low profile! This is mostly my fault for not paying much attention, but the way the first plate slices, it creates quite a mess if you use different materials for support and the tower is enabled. I was quite confused when I woke up to this! Maybe put a note up before the next revision - again this is my fault for not checking properly. I think I might still be able to use the part, not sure yet - it split in a few places when I tried to remove the embedded tower.

The designer has replied

@darren.meier

Hi! Thank you for the kind words. I'm so sorry that you had that problem! I actually don't usually recommend people use support interface material for that particular model, as the support interface has to make contact on so many different print layers. When printing in PETG for both the model and support it just cleanly broke away on mine, and I have't really seen anyone else who had issues with it breaking away. I'm sorry that I didn't clarify that in the post!

@clearer.shuteye

I like the low profile design, but I had issues removing supports from the areas that the connector fits into so I had to use glue instead. The front of the AMS has insufficient contact with this design (back fits fine) so I’m a bit hesitant as the printer shakes around. I’d love to see a V2 that has better contact area for the front feet and a better connection between the 4 pieces that slide into each other to lock in place. Thank you!

The designer has replied

@darren.meier

Thanks for your comment! I didn't actually print it with supports in the bowtie connector areas, the only support I used was on the overhangs sections on the rear pieces only (I marked the print orientation with a circular indent on the back of those pieces). As for contact, I will take that under advisement! It doesn't have full contact by design, but I've run mine a couple hundred print hours so far with the anti-vibration feet installed so my P1S is pretty bouncy and I haven't had any issues.

@sanguinerane

Very nice! I was looking for something exactly like this. What LEDs did you end up using and how did you connect them to the print?

The designer has replied

@darren.meier

Thank you, friend! I went with these ones-- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08M65DKZ7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 and trimmed the excess at the indicated cut lines then lightly bundled the USB cable with a zip tie and used the built-in cable hooks in the P1S to tuck the cable in the trim of the front panel near the USB-A connector. For me that meant starting the LED strip right around the P1S logo and going counterclockwise. That particular LED strip has a nice adhesive on it, just remove the blue tape... and it fits perfectly into the lower lip of the model. I know some other risers seem to use COB LED strips (the kind that appear to have a continuous glow instead of distinct lights) but I opted against them because the USB-A connector isn't specced for adequate amperage to run them. The LED strip I chose is 2A for the full length per the item listing, and once trimmed should be something like 1.3/1.4A in total. Hope that information helps!

@sanguinerane

Replying to @darren.meier :

Very cool, thank you for the info!

@ByteMe420

Replying to @darren.meier :

Those led strips are available in several color temps - I got the “natural” 4000K set and I think it looks pretty good although they have a funny yellow/blue color shift to them as you move your eyes from side to side - probably a result of how they applied the phosphors. Still I think I prefer them to the cooler temp leds - your mileage may vary. Also, the usb socket inside the printer can be hard to see…. The led cable plug inserts with the “solid” plastic side (in the plug) towards the front face of the printer. I ended up using a mirror to help guide me. Of course I was excited to get this cool riser installed and I probably should have moved the printer off the table and assembled everything on the floor lol.

@dca5454

I currently do not have a 0.6mm nozzle so what would you recommend the layer height should be. Thanks

The designer has replied

@darren.meier

Hey friend! Good question. A 0.4 nozzle can plausibly do 0.30 layer heights but it's maybe not optimal... in my opinion 0.24 should be a good layer height for this project on a 0.4 nozzle.

@dca5454

Replying to @darren.meier :

Thanks will do.