NOTE: I take no responsibility for this falling off your house. It's on my own house, and I feel like I've bulked this thing as much as I can to compete with the metal one from Starlink themselves. PETG is freakishly resilient and strong; I'm using a 0.6mm nozzle, and chose 20% infill, cubic, for strength. PETG is also UV resistant, and doesn't reach glass-transition point (where it could begin to soften, but not necessarily deform) until 80-95 degrees Celsius. The inside of your car on a hot summer day reaches 50-60c, for perspective.

Assuming your 1000kg roll of PETG costed about ~$20, this part will consume almost 300g exactly, and cost you roughly $5.99 to print.

I did this print without any supports. I know, I'm a madman. You'll have a minor amount of spaghetti buildup under the massive bridging, but it can be snipped, and doesn't affect the integrity at the end of the printjob whatsoever. Removing supports from PETG is a pain in the patella, so, to me, its worth foregoing the supports and letting it do its thing.

The screw holes are for 6mm diameter shafts (0.24~0.25"). I recommend stainless steel, and not the more common Zinc stuff if you're... mounting this outside. I also recommend rubber washers (or rubber AND metal) to keep weather outside of your drilled hole.

I don't expect this part to last forever. 2-3 years or so since my weather has some pretty huge fluctuations. By then, the next model of Starlink will be out, and an upgrade will be immanent anyway. Just print another $5.98 mount in 2-3 years, and start the countdown again.

Post-Printing

Careful not to peel up glass; PETG is quite the grabber I've found. 😬 I didn't use supports, as mentioned in the main description. If your bridging isn't tuned (mine isn't THAT tuned, but its not horrible) the amount of spaghetti you get might be a little higher than mine; No biggy, it'll be nice and strong when its finally done.

Category: DIY