Created this LED Pistol Pete light box for a niece headed there for college. It uses the usual white diffuser and reflector so it doesn't need the aluminum foil/tape treatment, but since this was a learning thing to make a box with an irregular border, the lens diffuser ends up locating the lens in the back walls. This one needs the diffuser for that.

It's also a test of some new hardware. Instead of having the wire permanently attached to the light box, I went with a modular jack & plug approach and also tried out some inexpensive electronic RF controls. They work great!

Tip of the hat to Geek3Designs for the base idea that conforms to the lower outline of Pete's face. (If you need a Pistol Pete and this one isn’t a fit, check his Pistol Pete.) I closed the base in instead and put the barrel jack in the side of it. I used black silicone seal to “glue” the lightbox into the base, then I fitted the LED strip and barrel jack, soldered in the LED controller, tested, and then used black silicone seal to attach the lens/face. I didn't do a light tight seal on the lens/body joint so the silicone seal has to take care of that and why it’s black RTV. As always, apply a thin, narrow, even bead of silicone, to the joining face, press the lens into place, and carefully lay it on its face and weight it a little while it cures. Be careful not to touch or smear the silicone that squeezes out while it cures. It's much easier to remove after it cures. It doesn't really stick well to PLA but it gap fills and moves into the tiny textures to lock parts together.

Parts I used (from Amazon) - note these are available in packs of varying size. The only important part is the panel mount barrel connector if you want to be able to separate the power supply from the light box. A wire will run right through the jack connector space and still be very light tight. Or use whatever you want. the only thing is if you use a jack, you need to use one with the same dimensions as the one I made the model for. (OD of threads using micrometer flats so is truly the OD of the threads is 11.4mm. The flats measure 10.4mm apart using the same flats of a micrometer. OD of the outer housing where the barrel connector mates is 14mm.)

WMYCONGCONG DC Power Jack 5.5mm x 2.1mm 3-pin female panel mount connectors, ASIN B098K32L4B (about $0.40 each)

DIANN RF Mini Wireless Remote Controller 11 Key with DC 5-24V for 3528 5050 Single Color LED Strip Lights, ASIN B0BBZ2LCKH (about $2.50 each)

YGS-Tech 12V LED Strip Power Supply, 2A 24W Power Adapter, ASIN B08FJ7KT4X (about $6.50 each)

White self adhesive 12V LED strip lights

2x short m.3 screws to hold the connector door on - or glue it on

Note - the barrel connector door and base on plate 3 will throw a warning about print head possible collisions. If you don't have it print one and then the other it prints great. If you need to print one and then the other for some reason, just move the door farther away on the build plate. I try to put things close to minimize dead travel between them and put them where I do to print with the Bowden tube as close to straight as possible.